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Hangboard soreness

Original Post
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

I broke my foot. 3 weeks to go and 3 weeks from the incident. I have built my own hangboard which compliments my novice nature. My big finger holds are slightly smaller than my gyms, and my small ones are WAY smaller than their medium. So I can only use one set of holds. Oops...

But because I can't warm up with a dozen laps or whatever non-sense I do on my barely "regimented" workout my fingers are starting to get sore. I've not used it this past week at all. My hang time is much lower than it was when I was climbing 4 nights a week with hangboard thrown in when needed and extremely moderate campus on thurs which I feel makes me climb a bit better on the weekend.

How can I stretch my fingers or use this bad boy without damaging my fingers? That would quite literally drive me insane at this point.

will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290

Use a counterweight to allow yourself to use the smaller holds. Check out the rockprodigy training guide if you haven't already.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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