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Black Arches Wall
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Hang Time 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: March 24, 2012 Jamie McNeill
New Route: Yes
Season: April - October
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 6, 2012
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Jamie McNeill on the FA


Begin by climbing up the corner to a rail leading right. Take this to a stance on the right side of a rock pillar. Go up the right-facing corner to its end, using stoppers and runners to protect. A difficult move (5.10a) through the overhang leads to a long stretch of technical face climbing, including a crux sequence (bolt-protected) past a blank section. Above the first crux, trend up and right to a stance below the bulging face. Work back left, around a corner (10a) to another stance below an overhang. Climb up the seam and technical face, passing one more bolt, to a good horizontal crack, then climb easy slab up and right to the anchors of Black Arch Arete.


Begin in the open book between the Tripe Buttress and the Black Arch Arete Buttress. This lies below the Patio. Look for the ugly, tree-choked corner 15' right of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It.


Small to medium cams, a few full-length runners, small to medium stoppers, and at least ten QDs.
The pro is generally good, but some of the bolts are difficult to clip if you are short, a few trad placements require strategic use of long runners, and there is some runout 5.6 territory.
70m ropes barely make it to the ground off the top anchors (use same anchors as Black Arch Arete).

Photos of Hang Time Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the final difficulties on the FA.
Approaching the final difficulties on the FA.
Shooting for the final dyno for the FA.
Shooting for the final dyno for the FA.
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