Type: | Aid, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | J. Thompson |
Page Views: | 776 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | J. Thompson on Mar 2, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route is actually a variation to the Hangover Overhang route. Start by climbing the bolt ladder as for Hangover Overhang (on the boulder on the NE side of the Gem Lake trail about 2 minutes from the parking lot), but instead of going out the roof "Hangleft". Traverse horizontally under the roof, you'll need to look around as not all of the placements are obvious. When you reach the end of the roof, continue up a short head wall, passing a bolt, to the top. This route will probably go clean, if you want to try it take an extra set of Lowe balls and a couple of cam hooks.
Protection
There are approximately 6 bolts and one rivet on this climb. Otherwise, take TCUs (or Aliens), the first 3 Lowe balls, 2 LAs (1 short fat, 1 long) 1 KB, hooks including 1 Bat hook. Also you need the following for the anchor- #1, #2, #3, #4 Camalots, 1 yellow TCU, 1 #8 stopper, and some cordelettes to equalize.
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