Hang Dog 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Old School |
| Submitted By: | Alex A on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Hang Dog
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Description Climb face to overhang with crack
Location right of Big Roof lelf of Better then Dry
Protection trad rack or TR
BETA PHOTO: Hang Dog right.... a bit easier but utilizes same...
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By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Oct 21, 2010
| I think Hang Dog climbs the face holds and more indistinct crack right of the main crack but utilizes the main crack (great wires and small cams) for gear placements. At the point where the crack meets the horizontal the climb veers a bit left and finishes up the hand crack. I you climb the crack straight on all the way it is hard 5.10 I believe. |
By Alex A Oct 21, 2010
| The gear is good but! you need to place gear lower then head height, no space for gear and hands, if you fall in the crux, you will need to remove your gear, down aid to clean, aka hang dog |
By Alex A Oct 21, 2010
| Hang Dog climbs the main crack, as I did the FA, Burt you may right about 5.10, old school 5.9+ |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Oct 21, 2010
| OK- Well there is a right variation that makes it 5.9+ I believe. The crack strictly is pretty darn hard as it is smaller then the average finger size. |
By Tom Mulholland From: #1 Cheese Producing State! Jul 17, 2011
| Pulling that roof was really fun! Felt hard because of recent rain and hot humid day, but really cool movement. Only used 2 holds in the crack: one bad finger lock in the crack to stabilize (able to place one good and one marginal nut from a stance just over the roof), and one sidepull in the crack to reach up high to a rail. Then, the sweet right-handed block pinch and some easier moves to the top. Throw in a bomber .75 C4, or skip it, as these moves are rather easy (just don't fall...) |
By Trad Nanny Aug 15, 2011 rating: 5.10
| Many different ways to do this, stepping slightly right to a ledge at the base of the crack, then back left past the crack seem to give the listed 5.9+ rating. the crack directly was definitely harder but there looked to be ample pro. |
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