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 ADVANCED
The Cleo Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor T,TR 
Better When Dry T,TR 
Between the Queens TR 
Big Roof TR 
Colostomy T,TR 
Curved Wall T,TR 
Face right of Barndoor Project? TR 
Hang Dog T 
Jack of Spades T,TR 
King's Throne T,TR 
King's Valet, The T,TR 
Mickey Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mouse T,TR 
Minnie Mum T,TR 
Missing Link T 
Pinko T,TR 
Plank, The TR 
Queen's Face T,TR 
Queen's Throne T,TR 
Queens Clam, The T 
Throne Room T,TR 
Tilted Tower T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 

Hang Dog 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Alex A on Oct 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Hang Dog

Description 

Climb face to overhang with crack

Location 

right of Big Roof lelf of Better then Dry

Protection 

trad rack or TR


Photos of Hang Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Hang Dog right....  a bit easier but utilizes same great gear placements in HD crack proper.
BETA PHOTO: Hang Dog right.... a bit easier but utilizes same...

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 21, 2010

I think Hang Dog climbs the face holds and more indistinct crack right of the main crack but utilizes the main crack (great wires and small cams) for gear placements. At the point where the crack meets the horizontal the climb veers a bit left and finishes up the hand crack. I you climb the crack straight on all the way it is hard 5.10 I believe.
By Alex A
Oct 21, 2010

The gear is good but! you need to place gear lower then head height, no space for gear and hands,
if you fall in the crux, you will need to remove your gear, down aid to clean, aka hang dog
By Alex A
Oct 21, 2010

Hang Dog climbs the main crack, as I did the FA,
Burt you may right about 5.10, old school 5.9+
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 21, 2010

OK- Well there is a right variation that makes it 5.9+ I believe. The crack strictly is pretty darn hard as it is smaller then the average finger size.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Jul 17, 2011

Pulling that roof was really fun! Felt hard because of recent rain and hot humid day, but really cool movement. Only used 2 holds in the crack: one bad finger lock in the crack to stabilize (able to place one good and one marginal nut from a stance just over the roof), and one sidepull in the crack to reach up high to a rail. Then, the sweet right-handed block pinch and some easier moves to the top. Throw in a bomber .75 C4, or skip it, as these moves are rather easy (just don't fall...)
By Tradoholic
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Many different ways to do this, stepping slightly right to a ledge at the base of the crack, then back left past the crack seem to give the listed 5.9+ rating. the crack directly was definitely harder but there looked to be ample pro.