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Artist's Bluff
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Artist's Arete 
Brass Balls 
Handy Cap Direct 
Little Monalisa 
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Special Olympics 
Standard Direct 
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Standard Route 5.10 variation 
Standard route 5.7 variation 
Vincent's Ear 

Handy Cap Direct 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Handycap Direct...

Description 

A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...

Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a big move to a good hold at the top of the corner... Exiting the corner is awkward as you shift from steep corner climbing to a few slaby moves... Here you might want to place a nut or two before heading up at about 5.8 and scramble up the the 2 bolt anchor...


Location 

To the right of Brass Balls(5.8) and left of Special Olympics(5.10c) look for a bolt line going up a steep wall and in to a corner...


Protection 

3 bolts protect the hardest moves but a couple small nuts above would keep the top section from becoming R rated...

An anchor about halfway up the cliff marks the end of the route but due to a lack of rap rings you will have to continue to the top of the cliff on moderate rock...



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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Oct 28, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Fun and powerful.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 3, 2010

There is currently a sling on the anchors. If I get to it I may leave a biner or two to help with the rappel situation.

By DCSwish23
From: a car ...or tent.
Jun 12, 2011

There's a sling on one bolt and it has a sling going to the other bolt. Not really the ideal situation. Some bolts at the top of the actual route part would be great to skip the easy top. Beware of getting the rope snagged in some cracks at the roof.

Overall really fun climb.