Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Jean DeLataillade, (extension: John Duran)
Page Views: 2,410 total · 12/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a fine route in an idyllic, secluded canyon. The stone is excellent and it hasn't suffered the erosion that other popular Cochiti routes like Touch Monkey and Gunning for the Budda have over the years. The route is also uncommonly steep, with big, positive holds.

Start on some steep (for Cochiti) jug hauling up good, incut pockets. The route soon rolls over onto a slab and so begins the crux section, with a few hard pulls on shallow, slopey pockets with technical feet. There is a long span between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that could lead to a groundfall, if your belayer isn't paying attention.

After the slab, the wall quickly steepens again, so you'll be forced to fight the pump to the top as long moves between good pockets don't allow for very good rests. It seemed only sporting to me to avoid the arete's on either side of the panel.

Rumor has it there is an optional variation to head right near the top on a gradually windening splitter crack. I don't reckon that will see too much action from kids these days.

Location Suggest change

South Wall of Eagle Canyon, right (west) of the tunnel, up high in a protected alcove. It climbs the overhanging right wall of a square cut column.

Protection Suggest change

bolts and two bolt anchor

Photos

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