With it's easy approach, fun moves and varied climbing it's easy to see why this route is so popular. Located on the left-most section of The Wall, a little before the northern apex of the front loop in Hidden Valley Campground. The crack is enjoyable throughout it's entire length, with stemming, jamming and combinations of the two techniques all played out on good rock.
Gear belay and a somewhat circuitous but easy downclimb off the slabby backside. Hint: once down to the desert floor, head left and then follow a trail that will circle back towards the base of the climb. Three stars out of five.
This is a fine route that I led for the first time yesterday. Also, it's sandbagged by a point; it's solid nine.
By Dustysdawg Dec 27, 2004 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is a really fun climb. It looks easier than it really is. There are three different 5.8 crux sections and all types of techniques are employed. I would give it a 5.8+ and three stars. I used all sizes of gear from a green alien up to a #3 Camalot. It takes great pro.
By Ryan Avery Oct 9, 2005 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Well, I liked this one too for the first 15 feet until I decked and broke my ankle in 3 places. Watch out for the opening moves and place early and often. I placed a bomber hex and #6 bd nut that held great. The problem, I didn't place when I had the chance at 15' up. A lesson to all leaders who get lazy with an easy grade such as this one. Awkward 5.8+.
Awesome route with some akward moves in a shallow crack.
By Obi From: Portland, OR Oct 8, 2006 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Somewhat awkward, but really great moves all the way up. Not sure if what I was doing was jamming, face climbing or a weird hybrid of the two. Definitely makes you think about how to use your feet and set your body up correctly for the moves.
Excellent, technical route. A favorite for afternoon sun.
By SirVato From: Boulder Jan 3, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Fun route!! We did this at night which made for a fun time. The route is directly behind our camp so, a couple of beers later boredom set in and the rack went on!! Definitely a cool mix of jamming/stemming. The to out was real fun as well.
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Feb 23, 2007 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
As a new leader you might find this route awkward and a bit hard.
Fun climb, might have been easier if I knew how to properly hand jamb. A couple of awkward spots that require some creative movement. Hauling my camera up on a shoulder sling probably didn't help either.
By SketchySam Nov 17, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is quite possibly my favorite route at JTree. This aesthetic line demands flawless style and requires every technique in the book. Put a beginner on this and watch him flail. Put a pro on this and watch him have the time of his life.
Loved this climb. Will do it again and again. It has it all. You can do a couple hand jams, finger jams/locks, stem, and even put your back into it for a chimney move in the middle section. You can put a mess of stoppers in it.
By Ryan Watts From: Bishop, CA Feb 21, 2014 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Some awkward and unintuitive movement -- definitely keeps you thinking the whole way. It takes great gear all the way up -- don't really see how it could be "R-ish" unless as someone else mentioned you got lazy thinking it was "just 5.8".
That being said I felt it was a bit stiff for the grade. Not a terrible sandbag but I'll call it like I see it -- 5.9 IMO.