2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This very excellent route permits you to climb in two pitches the very nice East face of the Animal World in Boulder Canyon. You may begin to climb by first getting up an easy ledge to the start of the climb. After only about 10 meters, there is the most difficult part to climb. After this, it is mostly 5.11 to arrive at the end of pitch number 1. The next section is very nice to climb at the 5.10 grade, and it has quite fine bolting for protection. For one whole week, I have trained for this route using the 4-plan. For me, to climb Hands of Destiny was to climb one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon.
This was originally climbed traditionally. It was retrobolted by Bob Horan who also added a second pitch.
This route requires that you carry many quick draws but it is not useful to carry any removable protection. We use two ropes in order to rappel from the top.
This route, The Hands of Destiny, has given me a great satisfaction for the flash. We spent one week climbing in Boulder Canyon in order to prepare for this climb. Hands of Destiny was to be a good target for the preparation because it is of very good design. One can approach the difficult section with not very hard moves and so be rested before starting this part. After only 3 meters the difficulty comes again to only 5.11 (6c+) and does not again become more difficult. Our preparation allowed us to try many good climbs in Boulder Canyon, and many of these were very excellent routes. For my climbing, I feel that Hands of Destiny was the most special route of all. Our 4-plan was good, our preparation was well, The Hands of Destiny was a very excellent and nice climbing route.
I see my American colleagues are fast to anger. Perhaps you should not have so much anger for my success as you should ask how much I must fail to reach my goal! With my friends in Bergen we train very hard to make the flash because we feel it is the best measurement for our climbing skill. So please do not take the offense for my success, I have had to climb so many routes for each one.
My thanks to Alan for his kind words. My goal has not been to "spray" for my own glory but to show how hard we must work to succeed with these very nice climbs that we have done in Colorado. It is pleasing to succeed on these very excellent climbing routes.
This plan is nothing. It just how my friends in Bergen and I train for the flash. For many years we feel that the flash is the best way to show that we are improved in climbing. For us to flash this takes a plan and a strategy that we call 4-plan because it is based on 4 routes taken 4 times. For illustration I can use Hands of Destiny. We pick this route to be the goal for the flash because it is a quite nice route. We train by climbing 4 routes of nearly the same level and on the same type of climbing rocks. These are not tried to flash but only to red point. When 4 are done we try the flash route where the goal is now to flash. If we do this 4 times then we go to the next higher level. If we fail in the flash then it is necessary to try again on a new choice. We feel that if we must change the climbing rocks, then it is likely to need to begin the 4-plan from the start. All of this is only so that we may focus the training and not to drift too much from the goal to improve. Some of my climbing partners can make the red point at the 5.14 grade but this needs many tries and many failures and we think that to flash is maybe a improved way to measure our success. In the last week after a long trip to Utah and to Rifle in Colorado we came back to Boulder for another training but I think many climbers in US do not want to hear this.
So to be for the flashing most ready, climb if you can the 4 routes of the most similarity. And on the route not falling the moves is best. So for Vogue flash I do 4 14a flash after 4 13d flash redpoints!
The comment next to last was not my own. Perhaps it has been unwise to share my experience on this site. Many of the climbers in the US are very hostile to other climbers (not just myself!). Soon I am to return to my job in Bergen where I teach skiing, and I will remember my good experiences climbing in Boulder. I think it is sad that so many climbers in the US do not so much enjoy the climbing as they enjoy feeling good to be better than other climbers. In Europe, where we have very many good climbers, there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport so this has been a big surprise for me in US. Perhaps more of my US friends will learn to take pleasure in the climbing sport, then everyone will feel welcome here.
Dear Sven, I think what American climbers got annoyed with is the selective nature of routes that you profiled, which all appeared to be flashes. Perhaps if you had added routes which you had more trouble on or were able to supply more helpful information than "quite fine bolting" or "short crux", people would not take offense. It's not that American climbers hate climbing, they hate what is called "spray," the gratuitous offering of info designed to make the sprayer look good. Describing a route has nothing to do with whether you flashed it and that news is of no help to someone who wants to know about the climb. It has nothing to do with where "there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport" but a lot to do with perceived attitudes and how you clearly wanted to talk only about flashed routes. I for one would be more impressed with descriptions of harder routes which require larger commitments of time and energy to succeed on. All that said, flashing Rainbow Wall is impressive. Best wishes, A. Coward
Bob D"Antonio makes an important point here and one that came up for me while climbing in California during the last three weeks. We ran into a visiting gang of hardcore Brits who were very much aware of climbingboulder.com and spent some time contrasting it with the web site 8a.nu. What I took away from their comments was the degree to which what we write here becomes visible throughout the world. In other words our comments have become very public. For that reason, I would suggest that if you write it here comments and route descriptions should contain information and ideas that you are willing to have placed in the public view. Think twice before adding spray, sniping, and vituperative dissing of other climbers.
Here is some additional info that some may find useful (regarding the route) that has nothing to do with Sven.
A 60m (200ft) rope will allow one to lower off or rappel off the 1st pitch anchors. A 50m rope won't make it to the ground. However, it would be possible to lower/rap to the anchors of Animal Instinct on the right and rap off those rings with a 50m cord.
The first bolt is about 25 ft off the ground. One can protect the easy 5.8 loose block intro without additional rope drag with a cam (1.5-2 Friend) and a long (1.5 shoulder length) sling. Although this is not necessary, I prefer to minimize the risks when possible.
After the blocky start, this route is very well bolted with easy clips. There is also some additional fixed gear that is helpful when working the moves or just hanging the draws. Hands of Destiny is excellent, with great 5.11 climbing, despite the crimp fest crux.
Maybe I really suck, but I think a hold has been broken. I was up there recently and it was really hard to clip the third bolt. Anyone got any info? I could see a scar where a longish hold might have been to the right of the third bolt. The only hold there is now is a pinch above the bolt.
Great line, but I'm amazed that three different guidebook authors grade it so dramatically different. Hate to say it, but this is much closer to 12c than 13a.
By Joe Collins Mar 17, 2004 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
I think the Rolofson rating of "12c/d" is about right on. The "c/d" for the height dependent nature of several moves in the crux section. Don't think you have this climb in the bag if you get through the lower section... the top seam/slab is tricky and hard.
Hands of Destiny was rated 13 a/b in Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North. He lists the gear then as small stoppers, TCUs plus four pins. Just maybe it felt a little harder placing gear than it does now with all them safety clips.
By George Squibb From: Boulder, CO May 5, 2008 rating: 5.12d7c28IX28E6 6b
Onsight and hanging the draws it felt closer to 12d to me (I can't really climb slabs anymore - too much time in the gym - so I had to try a little). Though not very hard, it's sort of challenging to put the puzzle together onsight. The final slab is desperate: no chalk, licheny, and I had to use my feet - thought I might blow it there! A little scary getting to the 1st bolt too...good route for BoCan.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Dec 6, 2010 rating: 5.12+7c28IX27E6 6b
Great position, solid rock, and varied movement with technical and mental cruxes. Don't cut yourself short by traversing right to the Animal Instinct chains, it's not over! Some rope work would need to be done to manage the rope drag if trying to link all the way to the top but you get pretty good value after finishing P1. Classic Boulder Canyon sport climbing!
This climb is rad! Tried it a year ago and could never figure out the crux despite sending many other climbs of higher difficulty. Just returned and figured out the crux sequence in a few minutes. Pretty thin and devious face climbing with a techy crux. My advice to everyone is to do this climb when it's cloudy and cold. This wall bakes in the sun all day and is extremely hard to do when it's greasy. The crux won't even feel possible if it's hot, perhaps why I could never send it in the past. Great route, though! Don't cheat yourself by stepping out right and clipping the chains of Animal Instinct like some people do. The climb ain't over til the fat lady sings! The slab up top demands your attention. Do it and smile the whole way, the face climbing on this route is some of the best I have been on. Brilliant!