My vote for the most intimidating looking single pitch of trad cimbing in the South. The hardest and best of what I consider the "Triple Crown" of T-Wall roof cracks to borrow from the bouldering competition of the same name.
Upon closer inspection bomber jams and locks are to be found but you gotta earn this one. This has probably seen less than 10 ascents since the first in '85. It's not that it's impossibly hard but it takes a little extra effort.
I'd love to know the exact number of ascents. Shipoopi was rumored to have barely missed the onsight falling at the last roof. If anyone has onsighted it I'd love to hear about it. This is a proud climb and one of Rob Robinson's finest. Get psyched.
Can't miss the monster double (triple?) tiered roofs at the top of approach trail.
This climb is a logistical nightmare. Double ropes MANDATORY. When you get to the lip of the big roof clip fixed pro with second rope. Once established in the corner untie first rope. Standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: I shot this mid-August 2012, on a strangly cool da...
Apr 13, 2008
Full disclosure, have not redpointed...
The cruxes aren't where you'd think they'd be. You can also do the "Jerry Roberts" method in which you tie into both ends of the rope and drop the "first 1/2" after the 2nd roof no need for doubles...the midpitch anchor was pretty shoddy and not equalized as of 2/08. This climb can be wet depending on the mood of the h20 fall.
|By Stone Brew|
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 19, 2012
There isn't supposed to be a midway anchor, that needs to go soon.
|By American Dankster|
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b
2008? Are you talking about the two pitons...they ripped (one on whip). Mighty fun on two ropes. But there is some gear in the roof where you wouldn't be switching ropes anyway. (hint: try cleaning the route)