Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
North Whizz Dome
Select Route:
Handbook T 

Handbook 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell and Roger Breedlove
Page Views: 1,445
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Going through the thin flaring jams up to the inte...

Description 

P1. I would have to disagree with the topo as far as where the crux is. I felt the true crux was at about 20 feet with its flared thin hands, rattly fingies and polished layback. Its a little hard/pumpy to pro. Skip the obvious bolted anchor (its a good shake-out) and continue through a second crux of 10+ and cool stemming and finger locks. (These ratings apply to 6' male...Switch the crux sections around if you are shorter and have small hands). At the top of the corner/roof, make a short, cool traverse left to an easy squeeze with lots of knobs and belay above off good nuts. (11a PG-13 and incredible fun)

P2. Up to the roof and traverse left on a hand rail to an ugly, knobby chimney. (5.7 R)

Location 

On the northwest face of the dome. It will be obvious!

Protection 

set of cams from blue Alien - #4 Friend sizes with extra yellow Alien - red Camalot sizes, med/large wired nuts


Comments on Handbook Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Dale Bard was the first to climb it all in one pitch I believe. Split into 2 pitches it is probably more like 5.10+. I agree with Alex regarding the 2 cruxes...pretty obvious really but if you punch through there are great hand jams that await.

It's been a while since I did it, but I don't recall any part of it being "PG13." One of the finest cracks in Tuolumne and well worth traipsing around for.
By Rob Dillon
Aug 25, 2008

I really dug this one- definitely worth seeking out.

Perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to moving their (strangely placed mid-pitch) anchor to the top of the corner...it doesn't make any sense where it is, and the topout is nothing special.

Pro is abundant throughout the corner.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Sep 18, 2008

You would dig it Rob, more like a T-Wall route than anything I've seen in the Meadows! Outstanding route, beautiful setting. Nothing PG-13 about it, just be smart about where and when you place your gear. It's all good.
By Rob Dillon
Jul 9, 2009

We actually climbed a kind of exhilaratingly T-Wall-esque topout variation- rather than going left to the chimney, stayed m/l straight up on exposed arete and facey ledges and stuff. Kinda heads-up, 5.8 or -9.


I emailed Roger Breedlove about the anchor and he basically said "call Jim, it was his show."
By Phil Esra
Aug 6, 2012

More fun and interesting than Tideline, I thought. Similar difficulty.