Located down and left from Mental Physics (5.7+) is this ramp/corner system marked by a roof high up.
Starting near the base of Unconscious Obscenity climb the ramp/corner as it steepens,leading to the prominent roof which is turned on it's left side (crux). Finish up on a ledge with bolted anchors and rap off (80'), or continue up easy but unprotected face to the top of the formation and walk off to the north (climber's left).
Not a great route, but perhaps worth doing if in the area and waiting for one of the more popular routes (which can happen more than you'd think); it's characterized by relatively easy climbing to a brief crux section but offers a nice altitude change nonetheless.
Gear to 3", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 14, 2005
Did this while waiting for the two nearby classics to lose the crowds. I'm still wondering why I got on a climb with the words 'hand wobbler' in the name. This thing flares the entire way, and I had a hell of a time with the crux roof.
Might not be so bad, but you're almost certain to hit the ramp if you blow the roof, which is rattly fists.
We topped out and walked off. It's probably 25 feet of 5.4-5.5 unprotected to top out.
This thing messed with my head, and I still think about it. I did mental physics right after it, which by comparison is totally unmemorable.
Apr 5, 2006
Led this great climb as shown in RV's guide starting in a flaring right leaning fist(?) crack on the east side of the huge boulder under the crux roof and right of the ramp in the description. One spicy move from the end of the crack got me to a bolt and easy ground up to the easily protectable roof (#3 camalot) After underclinging out to the edge I was indeed delighted to find it unnecessary to jam thru the crux.
|By Scotty Nelson|
Nov 9, 2007
You don't have to finish on the #3 camalot roof. After clipping the bolt, climb up through a small overlap to the top. There are rap chains (2 ropes needed).