As per Rossiter:
P1: Start on a ledge with a juniper and a tree about 30' up and left of Bat Crack. Anchor your belayer and have them put you on due to the fall potential off to your left, and fire up the knobby face to gain the bottom of an obvious flake. The start is easier than it looks (5.5 or so) starting in on the right, but there is no gear for about 25'. Cruise up the flake taking a bomber hand crack up a slab until it trends left under a roof. Protect the second well, and hand traverse under the roof. You don't so much pull the roof as you scoot around the left end of it and arrive rather abruptly on a small grassy ledge. The exposure is kind of wild, and it is great climbing for the grade (5.7). Small stuff builds a nice anchor here. 140'.
P2: Not as much fun, but you're already there, so here goes - the 5.6 version goes left around a corner, consult Rossiter, et al. The somewhat more exciting 5.8 option works up and right off the belay to an 'overlap' where you fish in a dicey nut at a crumbly, flaring crack. Pull the one 5.8 move onto the face above, sling a big flake and then cruise the easy, knobby face climbing to the top. There is no gear for the last 30-40', but the climbing is easy. I suspect that with long runners and a 60m rope you could do this route as one pitch, which would be great pitch as P2 is easy and you waste time at the belay.
Walk of to the NE and gain a trail back around to the bottom of Batman Rock.
Standard rack, no pieces larger than a #3 Camalot, mostly midsize stuff.
Cranking up the well featured crack.
Following the first pitch.
The spectacular hand traverse at the end of pitch ...
Ernie Port working the cool hand traverse at the e...
Just below the crux on the righthand variation of ...
Running out the start.
Steve Marr just above the start of Hand Over Hand.
First pitch of Hand Over Hand.
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 28, 2002
Reminds me of "Rewritten" P4 in reverse. Once up around a cool flake at the start, a nice crack ends at a roof to a traversing hand crack left and up. Kinda fun with descent exposure. But thats the climax of the (7) route. If you choose to go left at the upper ledge around a boulder, the route is essentially a short 5.1 scramble to the summit.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2002
Fun climb! The righthand variation on pitch 2 is fun also, but I would not want to combine this with pitch 1 as you might be doing the runout at the end with a lot of rope drag.
Mar 2, 2007
You could do this route in one pitch, but why miss that deliciously exposed belay at the start of the traverse? Also, try the wa-a-y steep handcrack that's almost directly above your head on this belay. A couple of joyous, "air-out-your-knickers" stems and jams get you to some welcome jugs, then you can ramble to the top on easy stuff.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 25, 2007
With S. Costello. Thought P1 was one of the best easy pitches on Lumpy Ridge--good jams, interesting rock, good pro. The belay left of the roof is not to be missed, a real stone couch.
The squirrely pro on the second pitch can also be avoided by going straight right from the belay, then up on fairly easy ground.
Jul 13, 2011
This is a great route all around. I am not sure what we did differently, but the second pitch was pretty rad. From the belay, move just left and then reach up over the roof to find bomber gear and a sweet crack. One 5.8 move and you get a sweet jug to pull over the roof like a rock star. Fantastic. Place some gear and then choose your own adventure through the slabs above.
EDIT: I just noticed that the description above doesn't really jive with Gillett's topo, so my description may be somewhat confusing. I set a belay right above the great hand crack on p1 and just below the roof.