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Fully Clothed Edge, The S 
Hand Over Fist T,S 
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Hand Over Fist 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Hanson
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Hand Over Fist - Dark spot at bottom is a cave tha...

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Find the start of Hand Over Fist only a few steps away from where you climb down from the power lines. It is maybe 50 feet northwest of where you climb down. Look for an awesome, and steep looking crack that cleaves the wall above. Don’t let the guide book rating of 5.9/10a fool you, because this thing packs a wallop for being as short as it is. From a funky, overhanging start, find a solid hand jam and finger lock that might allow you to toss for a cobble on the left side of the crack. A good hand jam above the coble will let you get established in the finger/hand/fist crack above. Actually, you end up using a lot of cobbles on the face, too. Hang on for the finish through some wonderful hand jams. Don’t let the looks of this one scare you away. It is a true gem hidden in the canyon. The rock is pretty rough, so tape is definitely recommended. Enjoy!


50 feet northwest of where you down climb from the power lines, look for the awesome hand and finger crack that cleaves the wall above.


For gear, take a standard rack, with an emphasis on some finger to hand size pieces. There are two bolts located at the top of the climb that will allow for the set up of a top rope.

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By Tom Hanson
Oct 5, 2007

Thanks for adding this one.
I got back on Hand Over Fist this last summer for the first time since the FA.
You're right, this thing cranks and it is a fun pumpy lead.

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