Type: | Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Tom Hanson |
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Shared By: | Julian Smith on Sep 24, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Find the start of Hand Over Fist only a few steps away from where you climb down from the power lines. It is maybe 50 feet northwest of where you climb down. Look for an awesome, and steep looking crack that cleaves the wall above. Don't let the guidebook rating of 5.9/10a fool you, because this thing packs a wallop for being as short as it is.
From a funky, overhanging start, find a solid hand jam and finger lock that might allow you to toss for a cobble on the left side of the crack. A good hand jam above the coble will let you get established in the finger/hand/fist crack above. Actually, you end up using a lot of cobbles on the face, too. Hang on for the finish through some wonderful hand jams.
Don't let the looks of this one scare you away. It is a true gem hidden in the canyon. The rock is pretty rough, so tape is definitely recommended. Enjoy!
From a funky, overhanging start, find a solid hand jam and finger lock that might allow you to toss for a cobble on the left side of the crack. A good hand jam above the coble will let you get established in the finger/hand/fist crack above. Actually, you end up using a lot of cobbles on the face, too. Hang on for the finish through some wonderful hand jams.
Don't let the looks of this one scare you away. It is a true gem hidden in the canyon. The rock is pretty rough, so tape is definitely recommended. Enjoy!
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