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Hand of Sceiron
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Camel's Head Area
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Black Cobra S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Easy Snow |
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Frosted Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hand of Sceiron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Heavy Metal Saturday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pizza Party Friday S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Punk Rock Breakfast S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Red Lung T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Smooth Jazz Sunday S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Martin, Bruce Edwards, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,068 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Harrison on Dec 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Hand of Sceiron climbs a sweet left leaning crack/chimney system that is obvious from uptown Sedona. Has a more obscure, old school feeling. The rock quality varies, but is mostly good.
Originally, the first pitch involved some aid right before the belay, but now there is a variation to pitch 1 that goes free.
The original pitch 1 climbs a wide low angle crack to a seam and belays just left of a roof 5.7 A1.
We started to the left of the original in a crack and traversed right under stepped roofs to a crack in the limestone and a boulder problem above a bolt to the belay ledge, 5.10+, 140 feet.
The second pitch starts with sweet fingers, then angles left and becomes a shallow chimney then a hand and offwidth crack, 5.10, 170 feet.
Pitch three climbs up and left, until you can unrope and walk left, 5.9, 60 feet.
Originally, the first pitch involved some aid right before the belay, but now there is a variation to pitch 1 that goes free.
The original pitch 1 climbs a wide low angle crack to a seam and belays just left of a roof 5.7 A1.
We started to the left of the original in a crack and traversed right under stepped roofs to a crack in the limestone and a boulder problem above a bolt to the belay ledge, 5.10+, 140 feet.
The second pitch starts with sweet fingers, then angles left and becomes a shallow chimney then a hand and offwidth crack, 5.10, 170 feet.
Pitch three climbs up and left, until you can unrope and walk left, 5.9, 60 feet.
Location
Hand of Sceiron is on the NW side of Camel's Head. It is obvious from uptown Sedona as a left trending crack system. Approach as for Slingshot Rock to the Snoopy/Slingshot saddle then go slightly down and left under Tequila Sunrise along the Western toe of Camel's Head, and follow the base of the wall up to find the route.
To get down, from the top walk East and you can climb the mini summit of Lucy then rap bolted stations to the South down Red Lung with a single 70m. Alternatively you can pass South through the notch and summit the Camels Head and rap down Frosted Flakes with two ropes from bolted rap stations. Both options require hiking back to the N side, to get back to the base, but it only takes a few minutes.
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