Hand Me Down
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BETA PHOTO: Hand Me Down (5.8) -- looking up first pitch
Pitch 1 (120', 5.8) : Climb a right-trending hand crack for 70'. It narrows down briefly to fingers and then closes up to a seam. Then follow some slabby stuff 50' (no pro that I saw, but easy terrain) up to a two-bolt belay in an alcove.
Pitch 2 (80' ? fourth - easy fifth) : Head up knobs, trending right into a low-angle chute and belay off a single bolt.
The Fault Zone is a buttress just below Long's Folly; routes end near the High Peaks trail (walk off).
To get there, take the High Peaks trail north from the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail (there is an outhouse near the junction). Descend a ways, and then begin ascending again, then turn right down what looks like a deer trail. If you start heading up some steps cut into the rock accompanied by handrails, you've gone too far.
The junction is 2 miles from the Bear Gulch parking lot, with about 1200' elevation gain.
There will be a steep, left-leaning crack heading up the buttress to a black water streak -- this is Condor 70 (5.10a R). Continue right through some trees and observe a chimney-looking thing heading up. Then turn to your left and see the beautiful hand crack (north-facing).
Cams from 0.6" to 2.5 or 3" (the crack widens briefly), maybe a set of nuts.
The guidebook mentioned a bolt somewhere on the first pitch, but I seem to have missed it.
Tape might be handy -- the rock is sharp and knobby inside the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Condor 70 (5.10a R), to the left of the route
Noal on first pitch, near where the crack narrows ...