Hand Job Direct 5.9
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is on the Cynical Pinnacle. It starts below the obvious line of Hand Job which leads to the top of the Pinnacle in 4 pitches.
If hiking up from the road towards the start of Center Route and Wunsch's, look for the obvious line of Monkey's in the Forrest, it has a small tree with slings on it, and contnue uphill to the next crack. It looks obvious and good from the ground.
Start off with steep hand jams which lead to the crux where the crack widens a bit. Move right above the crux into a different crack and follow this (5.8+ hands) to the walk off ledge.
Walk off to the left making some rather exposed scrambling moves.
Protection Pro up to #3 Camalot, double #2 and #3.
Another view.
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The start. Halloween.
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| Comments on Hand Job Direct |
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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 30, 2003
rating: 5.8+
| Chris Hodge and I climbed this back in winter, 1974. Probably a first ascent. Later in the spring we finished Hand Job all the way to the Wunsch's bolt ladder and summit with another guy from high school named Barry.
We did not name the route Hand Job or anything else, That is one of the lies from the Brown Book, but the jamming sure messed up our hands.
If Center Route and Wunsch's seem intimidating, then try just the first pitch of Center Route and Hand Job Direct for a good day's 5.8 crack climbing.
It would be better if hand job had a double bolt anchor at the top. We hadn't been to the valley yet in '74 and didn't know how to set up single pitch cracks properly.
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By pete cogan
Sep 6, 2004
| A couple of #3.5 Camalots could also help you here, along with the three larger hexes.
You can also rap the route with 2 ropes.
Terrific pitch. |
By A. Wolaver
From: Golden, CO
Jan 20, 2009
| A terrific route! You can rap off this route with the stretch and love of a 70 m rope. |
By Ben Hicks
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 6, 2009
| Climbed this right after Center Route. I don't get this one's 5.8- 5.9 rating. It was more strenuous, awkward and sustained than Center Route. There is a rap anchor at the top. 60m won't make it, We used 2 ropes. The anchor placement is pretty bad for pulling the ropes. We had to get far away from the cliff face to be able to pull them. |
By Alison Conrad
Nov 6, 2009
| P1 felt harder than 5.9. I found it pumpy and awkward down low. Nothing bigger than a 3.5 cam. |
By Gregger Man
Aug 7, 2011
| Cut the tat at the top and added a fresh cordelette and forged ring at the chockstone. 70m gets you down (just barely). |
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