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The Malamute
Routes Sorted
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Quagmire Crack T 
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Caboose T 
Cider Crack T 
Clean Crack T 
Crescent Crack T 
Curly S 
Fungus Razor T 
Grub Street T 
Hand Jive T 
High Mountain Woody T 
Id T 
Larry S 
Moe S 
Neighbourhood Bully T 
Old Style T 
Overly Hanging Out T 
Pacing the Cage S 
Paul's Crack T 
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Pinky Locks T 
Shallow End, The S 
Slap and Tickle T 
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Trailer Arręt 
Unsorted Routes:

Hand Jive 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (by me, it's not in my guidebooks)
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Apr 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Me wishing I had brought more grey C4s

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is getting your way out of the restful alcove. I guess it's also a little cruxy traversing to the anchors; you want there to be a jug for that move, but...

Anyway. Amazing route. Definitely out of bounds, you're not allowed to climb it. It's as close to the tracks as Clean Crack and Caboose are.

Location 

Just past Crescent Crack (climber's left), next to a sign that tells you you're not allowed to climb on it.

Protection 

So, you'd think it would take a lot of hand-sized gear, right? That's what I thought. In reality, it takes as many Grey Camalots (.4, not #4) that you can throw at it. If I went back to it I'd take 4 greys, 2 purples, 2 greens and then some hand-sized stuff. Oh, and a #5. I placed a #5 in the alcove. You definitely don't need to, but I'd just bought it and wanted to place it. Definitely extend it if you do. Chains at the top.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

crux parts were rattly fingers for me, 3 each of .5- .75 camalots would be nice. I had 2 of each and leapfrogged them. other stuff works- #1,2 and 3, but I don't think I used anything smaller then the .5 except for a nut.
FA: Eric Weinstein, Carl Austrom, 1975
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 1, 2014

No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day.