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Routes in North Rabbit Ear
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Awful Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boyer's Chute T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chute Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Davis Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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DreamBoat Annie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hand Jive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Little Question T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miracle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Parabola T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pea Pod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rotten Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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South Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Surprise Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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West Face Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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West Face Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Paul and Lou Horak August 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,956 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Karl R. Kiser on Jan 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
P1: (5.7) Layback crack, then face climb right to a large flake then up a tough to a pinnacle. The belay should have at least one bolt.
P2: (5.8) Face climb right and up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a left facing corner. Layback the corner and belay below blocky overhangs.
P3: (5.7) Short pitch up a wide crack to a tiny ledge blow the crux and belay.
P4: (5.8+) Climb a crack up through an overhanging trough, the crux. Traverse right below a huge overhang on easier terrain to cracks which skirt the overhang on the right. Belay near a large flake.
P 5 & 6: Easy fifth and fourth class to the top. Sign the new register.
Rap: see recent descriptions on other routes which top out.
P2: (5.8) Face climb right and up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a left facing corner. Layback the corner and belay below blocky overhangs.
P3: (5.7) Short pitch up a wide crack to a tiny ledge blow the crux and belay.
P4: (5.8+) Climb a crack up through an overhanging trough, the crux. Traverse right below a huge overhang on easier terrain to cracks which skirt the overhang on the right. Belay near a large flake.
P 5 & 6: Easy fifth and fourth class to the top. Sign the new register.
Rap: see recent descriptions on other routes which top out.
Location
This is the super northeast arete of North Rabbit Ear (see photo: mountainproject.com/v/10631… ). One approaches from the west up Rabbit Ears Canyon to the notch between Middle and North Rabbit Ear. Drop packs here as the double rope rap finishes here. Drop down on the east side and traverse under the east face to the arete. It is forth class to the start which is a layback crack left of the large arete.
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