Begin at twin hand cracks with a chockstone ~15 up. Pass the chockstone to a good ledge and climb the overhanging hand crack above (crux). Continue up the crack system via mostly hands and a little offwidth before the chains.
Optional pitches 2 and 3 ascend dirty 5.6/7 crack and chimney to the rim.
This is at the west end of the buttress. A basketball-sized chockstone is visible ~15 feet up from the highway. See the photo on the main page.
Standard rack plus many hand sized pieces, 1 #4 Camalot.
|By Mike Sullivan|
Jul 9, 2013
A very fun route -- two 5.9+ cruxes and much sustained 5.9 jamming in between. I don't think a #4 BD is needed, but at 155', the route can swallow a lot of #-.75 to #3 BD cams. I broke it into two pitches when it became clear that I would run out of larger pieces with a standard rack (doubles of everything and one #3).
There's a 2-bolt belay anchor at the top of the route that is visible from the ground. There's another 2-bolt rap anchor hidden about 10' west. This is a much cleaner rope pull.