I'd give this one three stars if the approach weren't so arduous. The route ascends a prominent, right-facing dihedral on the south face of Batman Rock, beginning east of the base of Batman Pinnacle.
P1. Lieback and jam a RFD until forced onto the face. Move left when a perfect hand-sized crack appears and the difficulty eases. (Rossiter rates this pitch 9 in his narrative description but marks it 8 on the topo.) Take a semi-hanging belay from slings with a link about 150 feet off the deck.
P2. Second pitch takes an obvious, finger-crack layback to a point you can move left over the roof and onto the west face and easy climbing (Rossiter calls this 8 in his narrative and 9 on the topo). I thought the crux was the second pitch, but the beauty of this climb is the consistent level of difficulty.
Recommend doing this after doing Batman Pinnacle. The rappel from that delivers you at the start of Hand Jive. Otherwise, the trail is a long slog for a two-pitch climb.
Finger and hand-sized gear to the #3 blue Camalot.
Approaching the crux on P2.
|By Clint Locks|
Aug 4, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The first pitch is indeed consistent and, I found, very 9 in places. The second pitch is cruxy for about 12 feet and the move left out of the crack is not that well-protected. Fun stuff.
Once you've arrived back at the base of the climb, ***if you have a 60 mtr rope,*** shoot up the dihedral just left (noted as "the alternate .7 start" for Hand Jive) for another good 80 feet of climbing. You can use the same slings you used for P1 of Hand Jive to rappel back down.
The descent, as far as we could tell, is boulder hopping down Batman, past the west side of the Batman Pinnacle, then 2 rappels to the ground. Careful getting to the first one. It's a little sketchy. Take the left-most option to get there. You can see the beginning of the second pitch of Batman and Robin (5.6) to your left at the rappel station, (a huge block with slings and 2 rap rings).
|By Ross Philip|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 25, 2012
A double-zero Mastercam placed in the horizontal crack at the top and just left of the dihedral on the 2nd pitch helps calm the nerves for the face moves up and left out of the dihedral.
|By Mitch Musci|
Aug 20, 2013
A short but quality line...definitely an overlooked classic. Killer hands in a steep corner on P1 lead to a small, open book corner on P2...the gear and holds are better than they look from below. Don't miss this one if you are up at Batman!