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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Horse T 
Dorsal Fin, The T 
Fin Arete, The T 
Fins and Needles T 
Fish For Brains S 
Gills, The T 
Hand Drills Suck! T 
Lateral Fin, The T 
Other Intentions T 
Pabst Schmear, The S 
Ventral Fin, The T 
Wave of Mutilation, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hand Drills Suck! 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Troy Anderson (solo) 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 25, 2006

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Description 

This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees. Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection. Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts. Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay. On rope barely gets you back down.


Location 

On the approach to the Fin, there is a small opening with a clean slab in it. If you walk to the base of the slab, you'll see the Smc hanger. This is the route.


Protection 

small cams, quickdraws, maybe a mid sized cam



Comments on Hand Drills Suck! Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2006

So, if TDA's route is merely a variation to a 1985 route that you now report, why was Other Intentions NOT reported before...like in the 3 previous guidebooks including LCC since 1986? Troy Warburton is from out of state...if he reported to you the route, why didn't you report. I think you are just into jumping on other people's parade.

By John Rogers
From: USA
Oct 12, 2006

It wasn't Troy Warburton who did any of the reporting of this route.....it was me. As soon as I can find my photo's of this line, I will add comments. Troy is a local, who may have dropped out of the climbing scene. I am still involved, but new to this form of communication. Troy and I have never been into reporting FA's for personal glory or ego. I merely started to communicate about this route, just to give relevant history for this climb. Sorry this may have stepped on your toes....... I don't mean to jump on to other peoples parade. I only discovered this FA link as an accident, and noticed that these new routes sounded familiar. I just thought I would share some information.