Hand Drills Suck!
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This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees. Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection. Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts. Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay. On rope barely gets you back down.
On the approach to the Fin, there is a small opening with a clean slab in it. If you walk to the base of the slab, you'll see the Smc hanger. This is the route.
small cams, quickdraws, maybe a mid sized cam
By James Garrett
Oct 7, 2006
So, if TDA's route is merely a variation to a 1985 route that you now report, why was Other Intentions NOT reported before...like in the 3 previous guidebooks including LCC since 1986? Troy Warburton is from out of state...if he reported to you the route, why didn't you report. I think you are just into jumping on other people's parade.
By Over The Hill
Oct 12, 2006
It wasn't Troy Warburton who did any of the reporting of this route.....it was me. As soon as I can find my photo's of this line, I will add comments. Troy is a local, who may have dropped out of the climbing scene. I am still involved, but new to this form of communication. Troy and I have never been into reporting FA's for personal glory or ego. I merely started to communicate about this route, just to give relevant history for this climb. Sorry this may have stepped on your toes....... I don't mean to jump on to other peoples parade. I only discovered this FA link as an accident, and noticed that these new routes sounded familiar. I just thought I would share some information.