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Go up a short hand crack in a right facing corner for about 10-15 feet, then crank up into an OW crack that moves up and right with a roof. Watch out for a couple loose flakes when moving into the wider crack. The OW is steep, and looks intimidating, but is only about 15 feet long. There is a nice lieback rail inside the crack, and a couple of knee-locks that keep it feeling like 5.9. It protected well with a #4 Camalot at a constriction in the crack. Above the crack, is a chockstone with a perfect #0.5 cam/red Alien slot. Continue another 20 feet or so to the summit, and belay from hand-sized gear.
This pitch climbs the north-west face of the box, and begins from the same block as Aunt Jennifer's Tigers
. It starts about five feet to the left of that route, and goes up the obvious corner. It could be possible to mistake the 1st pitch of Stone Love (5.7, also a fun pitch) for this route, but, that route is more on the southwest face.
Descent: from the summit of the box, downclimb the east face through a fist crack (5.2?) for about 30-40 feet to a notch where you can continue on a ramp to the NW, and back to the base of the climb. With a traverse from the top of the climbing, you can also rig a TR on Aunt Jennifer's Tigers
, or Fact of a Door Frame
Hand sized pieces, plus a #4 Camalot. Optional #0.5 cam, or red Alien placement after the crack.
By Dane Casterson
May 24, 2007
Grovel Grovel 10a? Grovel, Grovel.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Haah ha... not to mention the fact that a good amount of it is 6-9" wide. Traditional 5.9+ sandbag OW moves. The Haas guide attempts to make this clear - the pic is of me placing a #6 Camalot into the 'handcrack' with my whole arm in there.
By Shawn Mitchell
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fun 20' grovel. Decidedly right-leaning. BETA ALERT: Offwidth humping with left leg; internal and corner edge-pulling for the hands.