Go up a short hand crack in a right facing corner for about 10-15 feet, then crank up into an OW crack that moves up and right with a roof. Watch out for a couple loose flakes when moving into the wider crack. The OW is steep, and looks intimidating, but is only about 15 feet long. There is a nice lieback rail inside the crack, and a couple of knee-locks that keep it feeling like 5.9. It protected well with a #4 Camalot at a constriction in the crack. Above the crack, is a chockstone with a perfect #0.5 cam/red Alien slot. Continue another 20 feet or so to the summit, and belay from hand sized gear.
This pitch climbs the north-west face of the box, and begins from the same block as Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. It starts about five feet to the left of that route, and goes up the obvious corner. It could be possible to mistake the 1st pitch of Stone Love (5.7, also a fun pitch) for this route, but, that route is more on the south-west face.
Descent: From the summit of the box, downclimb the east face through a fist crack (5.2?) for about 30-40 feet to a notch where you can continue on a ramp to the NW, and back to the base of the climb. With a traverse from the top of the climbing, you can also rig a TR on Aunt Jennifer's Tigers, or Fact of a Door Frame.
Hand sized pieces, plus a #4 Camalot. Optional #0.5 cam, or red Alien placement after the crack.
|By Dane Casterson|
May 24, 2007
Grovel Grovel 10a? Grovel, Grovel.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
Haah ha... not to mention the fact that a good amount of it is 6-9" wide. Traditional 5.9+ sandbag OW moves. The Haas guide attempts to make this clear - the pic is of me placing a #6 Camalot into the 'handcrack' with my whole arm in there.
|By Shawn Mitchell|
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Fun 20' grovel. Decidedly right-leaning. BETA ALERT: Offwidth humping with left leg; internal and corner edge-pulling for the hands.