Hampster Monkey 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | M. Rolfofson, K. Trout, 2003 |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on May 19, 2012 |
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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a short but good quality route that lies just to the right of an obvious chimney and the route Moonshine.
The start had good hand holds but slippery feet. The crux seemed to be getting your feet high and lockoff for the 2nd hold. Mark Rolofson feels the crux is at the 3rd bolt. Move upward on some good jugs. You can stay slightly left of the bolts and find small but good edges...or...you can traverse right at the 3rd bolt and go for a slap for a sloper (harder, probably 11+ per Mark Rolofson). Either way, continue up easier moves to the 2 bolt anchor.
Location This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left and is just right of an obvious chimney.
Protection 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
1. Hamster Monkey, 5.11d/12a.
2. Hamster Kung Fu,...
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| Comments on Hampster Monkey |
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By Mark Rolofson
Sep 27, 2012
| The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move. |
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