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Hammond Organ 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 5/95
Page Views: 3,130
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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"The Imaginary Hold" - Arnaud determined...

Description 

Start up the slab where there used to be a sketchy ladder made of sticks. Go up the vertical part which is like Junco but harder. Pull a fun mantle move and be happy, you are half way there, though the crux awaits. Move through some tricky delicate slab climbing which scares sport climbers (who are not used to slab climbing) every day. The climbing here is like Lonesome Dove but harder.

Apparently, you can move left to grab the edge of the chimney to your left, but I've always avoided the left edge and gone straight for the top (the direct I hear is 5.11).

However, you do the crux expect fun climbing, on perfect rock and a beautiful view. The fact that it is similar to Junco and Lonesome Dove means it is going to kick ass.

Location 

Just left of Junco and right of the chimney of Nut Hatch.

Protection 

Originally 5 bolts to quick clips, but recently bolts have been added to the bottom slab section.


Photos of Hammond Organ Slideshow Add Photo
Jimmy Cliff, Right End.
BETA PHOTO: Jimmy Cliff, Right End.
Just past the crux on Hammond Organ.  The climber on the right is on Lonesome Dove.
Just past the crux on Hammond Organ. The climber ...
Lee on Hammond's
Lee on Hammond's
Climber on the left is on Hammond Organ (.10d) and climber higher and on the right is on the Junco (.8+).
Climber on the left is on Hammond Organ (.10d) and...

Comments on Hammond Organ Add Comment
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By BTodd
May 26, 2008

A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is in the old guide book at .10d. Rightfully so when the bottom bolts where to the left of where they are now I bet it was .10d (They got moved to the better line about 3 feet right). I suck at grading, but i've been told it's now .10b, maybe .10c and I feel like that's right on. Either way, fin climb and don't underestimate it cause there's some thin but good moves.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 16, 2009

this route looks so non threatening from the ground but i know as soon as i get up into the buisness im gonna be like.... damn....
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux, for me, is all mental, and super well protected so check it out
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I feel it is still .10d because the crux is still the same, and I agree a very mental crux on great face climbing.
By S. Neoh
May 6, 2012

I did the route today by heading left to the arete at the fifth bolt. Pretty nice with just one thin move. Mid 5.10 is my guess for grade this way. As for the mantle, if you are half way decent with slopers, the insure mantle move can be totally avoided with some creative high step.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First time on this route today. Very impressed. I liked it better than Lonesome Dove, though not more than Junco. The crux was a puzzler, but I got it worked out trying a few different sequences. Very nice. Recommended.
By Jason Scott Heacock
Nov 28, 2012

I sent this route first go this past summer and was super impressed with the moves, but i went right up the bulge (after the mantle) and it seemed 5.11 for sure.... Skip the flake out left, and avoided the awkward seeming out right, then left sequence. Love this cliff jimmy!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Any Boston-area climbers out there who have climbed Hammond Organ? The route would fit in very nicely at the Quincy Quarries. It's steep, but not overhanging, and the crux is thin and smeary. The route reminds me of Ladder Line, but Hammond Organ is not as sustained at the grade. A good route, no question, and (refreshingly) different from most Rumney routes that I have climbed.