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 ADVANCED
Valley Massif
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Hair Done That T 
Best Man T,TR 
Bill Steal T 
Bittersweet T 
Dirty Joke, The T 
Falcon's Lair T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Hammer T 
Hooker T 
Internal Combustion T 
King of Coney Island T,S 
Ladder T 
Monkey Wrench T 
Nail T 
Powder Puff T 
Quits T 
Screw T 
Slut, The T 
Social Security Ran Out T 
Soft Touch T 
Sunny Day T 
Surprise T 
Tail Spin T 
Tea Grinder T 
Tool Or Die T 
Zipper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hammer 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,670
Submitted By: Donny on Jun 25, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Getting in the off-width.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hammer ascends the very prominent off-width on the right side (when looking at the south face of Valley Massif). It is several routes right of Screw. The crack terminates just to the right of the right-most (and biggest) block resting on the summit.

From the trail, scramble up some blocks to the right of Zipper.

The first pitch is a nice warm-up for whats to come: climb a wide crack for 60 feet or so to a two bolt anchor. From the anchor, there are two cracks: Hammer climbs the off-width on the left. I thought that this pitch was very sustained and strenuous. The #5 gave me peace-of-mind while I heel-to-toed and chickenwinged up this on. Past the second chockstone, the crack becomes a chimney. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the right side. I accidentally climbed way past these and had to downclimb the slab, which was not bad.

Protection 

Bring a #2 Camalot on up. The #4 and 5 are very useful.


Photos of Hammer Slideshow Add Photo
Heel toe on Hammer.  Mike B.
Heel toe on Hammer. Mike B.
Starting up with some great hands.
Starting up with some great hands.
Start of the 2nd pitch of Hammer.
Start of the 2nd pitch of Hammer.

Comments on Hammer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Denver, CO
Aug 28, 2006

This is an awesome climb, accidentally got on it thinking it was Zipper the first time we were at Valley Massif. Although I climbed this one in the early days of my offwidth climbing experience, I thought it was pretty frickin' strenuous - and think it's harder than many 9s I've climbed at Vedauwoo including Finally and Fantasia - mainly just more sustained. Great climb, though!!!! Yeah, the bolts are to the right and above you on the slab when you're facing into the chimney at the top, you won't be able to see them from below....
By justin hausmann
Aug 19, 2013

P2=chickenwinging gruntfest.
By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Love this climb, and I finally got it clean. The first time I tried it the 2nd pitch spanked me, and I fell out! Used 2 #5s and a #6 and was very well protected. We lowered off and climbed Tool or Die. Was a great way to get three pitches in. I feel like might just be able to call myself a 5.8 climber now.
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