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Valley Massif
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Slut, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

Hammer 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,327
Submitted By: Donny on Jun 25, 2005
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Heel toe on Hammer. Mike B.

Description 

Hammer ascends the very prominent off-width on the right side (when looking at the south face of Valley Massif). It is several routes right of Screw. The crack terminates just to the right of the right-most (and biggest) block resting on the summit.

From the trail, scramble up some blocks to the right of Zipper.

The first pitch is a nice warm-up for whats to come: climb a wide crack for 60 feet or so to a two bolt anchor. From the anchor, there are two cracks: Hammer climbs the off-width on the left. I thought that this pitch was very sustained and strenuous. The #5 gave me peace-of-mind while I heel-to-toed and chickenwinged up this on. Past the second chockstone, the crack becomes a chimney. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the right side. I accidentally climbed way past these and had to downclimb the slab, which was not bad.


Protection 

Bring a #2 Camalot on up. The #4 and 5 are very useful.



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By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Aug 28, 2006

This is an awesome climb, accidentally got on it thinking it was Zipper the first time we were at Valley Massif. Although I climbed this one in the early days of my offwidth climbing experience, I thought it was pretty frickin' strenuous - and think it's harder than many 9s I've climbed at Vedauwoo including Finally and Fantasia - mainly just more sustained. Great climb, though!!!! Yeah, the bolts are to the right and above you on the slab when you're facing into the chimney at the top, you won't be able to see them from below....

By justin hausmann
Aug 19, 2013

P2=chickenwinging gruntfest.