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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.
A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....
With a lot of variety and challenge in a short distance, HD is for my money one of the best single pitch climbs in Dream Canyon, up there w/ Saragasso Sea and Mantra. (That opinion is in spite of the fact that the sandbag last move completely stymied me.)
Start on the left side of Midnight Rock at a slabby right facing corner with the first bolt a few moves up. (Ron Olsen's route locator photo does a good job of pinpointing the climb.)
Highlights: a 10d layback past a roof, tenuous 5.11 slabbing followed by 5.11 bafflement up a seam, the final crux roof which is either quite height-dependent or very out of character w/ most DC ratings.
Like most climbs on Midnight Rock, this one gets a lot of sun and should be enjoyable during the cooler months.
9 bolts plus anchors.
Jorge on Hammerdown, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Doug Madara putting the Hammer Down.
|By Bruce Pech|
Sep 26, 2006
What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.)