Hammer Crack 5.9
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BETA PHOTO: Sunken Slab (42), Prosperity (43), Hammer Crack (4...
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Description Hammer Crack is a tough line located on the easternmost wall of the Major Mass. Climb up the obvious crack using finger jams and feet on the face. The first 10 feet is the crux, where the crack is slightly overhanging. Swartling's book calls this 5.8, but I think it's at least 5.9. An easier variation is to climb up the inside corner to the right of the crack onto a ledge. Traverse back to the left on this ledge and climb the crack. Finish by exiting the crack at the large ledge (the North Platform). Be careful of loose rocks on the North Platform.
Protection Medium stoppers for lead. For Top Rope, head up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. About 20 yards from the top of the gully cut left (west) through a small "saddle" and onto the upper band ledge. In Swartling's book look at diagram 33E on page 141. After passing through the "saddle" you will be standing right on the word "Access" near the center of the page. From here head south along the west side of a small rock band and onto a point (on the book topo, walk from the word "Access" to the word "Keyhole". Hang your top rope anchor off the point so it falls to the left (northeast) of a small pine tree growing out of the rock.
John Knoerschild leading Hammer Crack. Photo by C...
| Chris Keller nearing the top of Hammer Crack Phot...
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| Dmitriy and Burt have a go at "Hammer Crack."
| Vince loving the Hammer Crack.
| Burt
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By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 11, 2002 rating: 5.8
| Some would call Hammer Crack a 5.8. |
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 25, 2005
| hammercase is cool,5.11 ,think old prunes lead it. |
By Ian Schmit Nov 6, 2006 rating: 5.8
| Crux is right off the ground. Eases back to 5.6 handcrack in the upper section. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Aug 17, 2009 rating: 5.9+
| Great climb. Hard opening moves. But great moves non the less. |
By Alex A Jul 9, 2010 rating: 5.8
| Short crux at the start, FUN, if you do it right, its 5.8 when I did, I was a 5.8 climber, not able to climb 5.9s like upper D, |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 20, 2010 rating: 5.9+
| Is that rap ring still around the tree at the end? |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 20, 2010
| Yes it is John. Big fat aluminum rolled and pretty much brand new looking. |
By John W. Knoernschild From: Wisconsin Jul 20, 2010 rating: 5.9+
| Good to hear my ring is doing well :) I put it up there last summer. There just isn't another good way down. |
By Doug Hemken Administrator Oct 6, 2011 rating: 5.8+
| The rap ring on the tree has eventually disappeared. |
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