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 ADVANCED
Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Corner, The T,TR 
Darkest Hour T,TR 
Hammer Case T 
Hammer Crack T,TR 
Hammer Crack Variation T 
Hammer Master T,TR 
Hard Times T 
Insect Parts T,TR 
Keyhole Chimney T 
Meat Hammer TR 
Nonconformist T 
Prosperity TR 
Stettner's Overhang T,TR 
Sunken Slab TR 
Top Shelf TR 

Hammer Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Burt

Description 

Hammer Crack is a tough line located on the easternmost wall of the Major Mass. Climb up the obvious crack using finger jams and feet on the face. The first 10 feet is the crux, where the crack is slightly overhanging. Swartling's book calls this 5.8, but I think it's at least 5.9. An easier variation is to climb up the inside corner to the right of the crack onto a ledge. Traverse back to the left on this ledge and climb the crack. Finish by exiting the crack at the large ledge (the North Platform). Be careful of loose rocks on the North Platform.


Protection 

Medium stoppers for lead. For Top Rope, head up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. About 20 yards from the top of the gully cut left (west) through a small "saddle" and onto the upper band ledge. In Swartling's book look at diagram 33E on page 141. After passing through the "saddle" you will be standing right on the word "Access" near the center of the page. From here head south along the west side of a small rock band and onto a point (on the book topo, walk from the word "Access" to the word "Keyhole". Hang your top rope anchor off the point so it falls to the left (northeast) of a small pine tree growing out of the rock.



Photos of Hammer Crack Slideshow Add Photo
John Knoerschild leading Hammer Crack. <br /> <br />Photo by Chris Keller
John Knoerschild leading Hammer Crack.

Photo by C...
Dmitriy and Burt have a go at "Hammer Crack."
Dmitriy and Burt have a go at "Hammer Crack."
Chris Keller nearing the top of Hammer Crack <br /> <br />Photo by John Knoernschild
Chris Keller nearing the top of Hammer Crack

Phot...
Sunken Slab (42), Prosperity (43), Hammer Crack (44), Meat Hammer (45), Hammer Case (46), Darkest Hour (49), and Top Shelf (50).
BETA PHOTO: Sunken Slab (42), Prosperity (43), Hammer Crack (4...
Vince loving the Hammer Crack.
Vince loving the Hammer Crack.
Pete Cleveland looking down Hammer Crack
Pete Cleveland looking down Hammer Crack
Comments on Hammer Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 11, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some would call Hammer Crack a 5.8.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005

hammercase is cool,5.11 ,think old prunes lead it.

By Ian Schmit
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux is right off the ground. Eases back to 5.6 handcrack in the upper section.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Hard opening moves. But great moves non the less.

By Alex A
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Short crux at the start, FUN, if you do it right, its 5.8 when I did, I was a 5.8 climber, not able to climb 5.9s like upper D,

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Is that rap ring still around the tree at the end?

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 20, 2010

Yes it is John. Big fat aluminum rolled and pretty much brand new looking.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good to hear my ring is doing well :) I put it up there last summer. There just isn't another good way down.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The rap ring on the tree has eventually disappeared.