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Moose's Tooth
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Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Ham & Eggs 

WI4 M4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Consensus: WI4+ M4- [details]
FA: Jon Krakuauer / Nate Zissner
Season: Spring
Page Views: 10,117
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008
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Ham and Eggs,
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time.


Location 

Access by flying into the Route Canal Glaicer. Or go old school from the Mountain House and Hump ur ass off.


Protection 

5-6 screws / light rack maybe five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons / extra material for decent slings



Photos of Ham & Eggs Slideshow Add Photo
Our badass B.C.
Our badass B.C.
Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in the middle.
BETA PHOTO: Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in t...
Great shot of the lower sections of the route
BETA PHOTO: Great shot of the lower sections of the route
Crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch.
Me on the summit.
Me on the summit.
Ham and Eggs from BC
Ham and Eggs from BC
Lower rock section getting into to the couloir April  2007
Lower rock section getting into to the couloir Apr...
Red - up; blue - down; green - reliable gear.
BETA PHOTO: Red - up; blue - down; green -...
Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the Ruth. Awesome!!
Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the ...
Comments on Ham & Eggs Add Comment
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By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 3, 2009
rating: WI4+ M3 Steep Snow

CONDITION REPORT 

This April climb received a lot of snow, and most of the vertical ice sections are actually overhanging snow. I suspect that's typical early season conditions.
In the way of pro, I'd take 4 snow pickets for the summit ridge and no pitons.