|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time.
Access by flying into the Route Canal Glaicer. Or go old school from the Mountain House and Hump ur ass off.
5-6 screws / light rack maybe five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons / extra material for decent slings
|By Artem Lebedev|
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 3, 2009
rating: WI4+ M3 Steep Snow
This April climb received a lot of snow, and most of the vertical ice sections are actually overhanging snow. I suspect that's typical early season conditions.
In the way of pro, I'd take 4 snow pickets for the summit ridge and no pitons.