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Moose's Tooth
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Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Ham & Eggs 

WI4 M4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Consensus: WI4 M4 [details]
FA: Jon Krakuauer / Nate Zissner
Season: Spring
Page Views: 11,518
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008

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Ham and Eggs,

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time.

Location 

Access by flying into the Route Canal Glaicer. Or go old school from the Mountain House and Hump ur ass off.

Protection 

5-6 screws / light rack maybe five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons / extra material for decent slings


Photos of Ham & Eggs Slideshow Add Photo
Our badass B.C.
Our badass B.C.
Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in t...
BETA PHOTO: Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in t...
Great shot of the lower sections of the route
BETA PHOTO: Great shot of the lower sections of the route
Crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch.
Me on the summit.
Me on the summit.
Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the ...
Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the ...
Ham and Eggs from BC
Ham and Eggs from BC
Lower rock section getting into to the couloir Apr...
Lower rock section getting into to the couloir Apr...
Red - up; blue - down; green - reliable gear.
BETA PHOTO: Red - up; blue - down; green - reliable gear.

Comments on Ham & Eggs Add Comment
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By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 3, 2009
rating: WI4+ M3 Steep Snow

CONDITION REPORT 
This April climb received a lot of snow, and most of the vertical ice sections are actually overhanging snow. I suspect that's typical early season conditions.
In the way of pro, I'd take 4 snow pickets for the summit ridge and no pitons.