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> 15. Laurentides
> Val-David
> L'Aiguille
> c. Droite de l'aiguille
Hallucinorêve
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 9
votes
Routes in c. Droite de l'aiguille
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Dulfer T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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En reprise à Radio-Québec T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Escapade T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Face Directe Directe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fatman's T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fatman's Directe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hallucinorêve T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Michael Ward T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mordre à l'hameçon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Poussez Pas Direct T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Réception T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Épitaf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Paul Laperriere, June 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,385 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jerome St-Michel on Jul 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès
Details
This area is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin administration, a daily fee is required to climb, hike, bike etc in the park, FQME members benefit from a rebate as well as group outings. parcregional.com
Description
A Mega-Classic in the area. Some people say it has first been climbed without the bolts and using hiking boots. I am not entirely sure about this one though.
The route start at the south jonction between "L'aiguille" and the main cliff. It's dead centre on the blank face. It actually start on a 10 feet high steep slab with a high bolt. Boulder up the slab on good holds, clip the bolt and mantle up to a large ledge. Scramble up easy ground angling left to a ledge with an horizontal crack, clip the second bolt.
Take a little rest and get ready for the overhang. Climb up a crimpy section clipping two (2) more bolts until it is possible to get a rest out left on a less steep section. Climb on good holds to a thanks god horizontal crack. Place gear and traverse left under an arch which has a bolt above it. Climb up to the obvious side pull then clip the last bolt. Take a depth breath and fire the last section until you get to some very good holds at the base of a slab. The last section is unprotected but easy. You can use to flake on your right to get to the Anchor.
The route start at the south jonction between "L'aiguille" and the main cliff. It's dead centre on the blank face. It actually start on a 10 feet high steep slab with a high bolt. Boulder up the slab on good holds, clip the bolt and mantle up to a large ledge. Scramble up easy ground angling left to a ledge with an horizontal crack, clip the second bolt.
Take a little rest and get ready for the overhang. Climb up a crimpy section clipping two (2) more bolts until it is possible to get a rest out left on a less steep section. Climb on good holds to a thanks god horizontal crack. Place gear and traverse left under an arch which has a bolt above it. Climb up to the obvious side pull then clip the last bolt. Take a depth breath and fire the last section until you get to some very good holds at the base of a slab. The last section is unprotected but easy. You can use to flake on your right to get to the Anchor.
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