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Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
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Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 

M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade IV
Consensus: M5+ [details]
FA: Glendenning party, 1951 / Mixed: Brad Johnson & Dick Jackson, 1975
Season: Early Spring / Late Fall
Page Views: 7,753
Submitted By: Aubrey K. Additon on Jun 5, 2006

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Physics geek on lead at the crux pitch.

Description 

This route climbs the chimney between the First and Second Buttresses on the north side of Hallett Peak. The bottom part of the route is relatively easy and can be covered quickly by simulclimbing. However once you get to the middle this is where the fun starts. From here on up to the top their are several steep sections requiring snow, ice, and mixed climbing techniques. In general, the crux moves involved climbing past the large chockstones wedged between the chimney walls. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when climbing this route. First, you are in a chimney which acts as a giant terrain trap for anything falling down from above. The later and warmer it gets during the day, the more stuff that falls. Second, there are several spots on this route which involve climbing through very dangerous sections of loose rock. Be careful of where you place your protection, and watch out for your partner below. Finally, depending on the condition the route is in crux sections may vary. In lean conditions, much more mixed climbing is involved.

Location 

This route is located on Hallett Peak above Emerald Lake and can be accessed from the Bear Lake trailhead in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack: cams, nuts, screws, and pitons are helpful. Pickets are optional but could be useful in some sections. There is a lot of old fixed gear on this route some of it is solid and some of it is highly suspect. Be careful about what you decide to trust. There are fixed rap anchors, but be prepared to leave some gear behind as many of them could use some additional support.


Photos of Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Slideshow Add Photo
Forming up.
Forming up.
Aubrey K. Additon on the upper section of Hallett Chimney, 6-3-06.
Aubrey K. Additon on the upper section of Hallett ...
Hey Hey it's finally got ice on it.
BETA PHOTO: Hey Hey it's finally got ice on it.
Looking out from near the top.
Looking out from near the top.
Hallett Chimney.
Hallett Chimney.
Dylan before the first step.
Dylan before the first step.
Jeff Barnow entering the middle section of Hallett Chimney 6-3-06
Jeff Barnow entering the middle section of Hallett...
Looking down from the top of all the hard climbing.
Looking down from the top of all the hard climbing...
Beta Photo of Hallett Chimney: The route follows the thin band of snow in the chimney running up the middle of the face.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo of Hallett Chimney: The route follows t...
No ice and lots of snow mushrooms as of 3/16/2014. Kyle leading P2.
No ice and lots of snow mushrooms as of 3/16/2014....

Comments on Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Add Comment
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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 3, 2006
rating: M5

Mike Ivie and I tried this route only to be turned back due conditions or time or personal freezing due to being wet at least 4 times. But the luck finally turned my way on the 13MAY06 when Ralph Burns and I got the route in really good conditions on my 7th try. Ralph lead the crux chock stone pitch and the second pitch rock wall. And the that left me the AI pitches and the pitch following the chock stone, which I call the CUBE pitch since its a cornice in the shape of a cube with ice on the right wall. The AI climbing is totally great once you get used to it. TAKE a dead man, you will be happy you brought it.
--Ross
By Jim Amidon
Jun 15, 2008

I climbed this my second attempt yesterday with, Mike Carr, his 3rd try. It was one of the most amazing alpine experiences for both of us. He's been climbing in the park for 30 years, me for 15.

I've looked at that route for countless years, tried to get people to climb it but never was able to get the partner and the fickleness of the route in sync.

As any alpine route is concerned weather and snowfall will dictate how a route shapes up. We had an incredible combination of great snow and wild ice, with wild mixed climbing. We both pulled a lot of tricks out of our bags to get the leads done.
Each time you'd thought you had climbed the crux there was another deceptive hurdle to cross.
90 degrees in the city, but not up there....get it while it lasts.
You will not soon forget that climb or that day.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2012

Possibly my favorite mixed route in RMNP - likely because we had excellent conditions. Styrofoam snice between cruxes, with enough ice in the steep bits to make it a true rock/ice mixture.
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
May 6, 2012
rating: M5-6

Fun route. The final snow mushroom that has seemed to stop a couple of parties this year can be surmounted by going right with alright gear. I thought this was harder then what is called the crux. It's all cruiser from there!
By tsuji
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2012

Climbed this yesterday. The infamous snow mushroom forced us around to the right into some tough terrain. Topped out before two which made us think that this isn't quite a grade IV route.