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This recently established sport area is a great addition to the Summit County climbing scene. The rock is generally solid, the moves are fun, and the bolting is pretty intelligent. The crag is not over-bolted. The NW-facing cliff is shady. The generally solid, "granite-ish" rock is somewhat slabby with a few roof bands adding excitement to most of the routes. Most of the climbing is on small flakes and blocks that protrude from the underlying rock. Some of these blocks especially in the roof bands are not securely attached, and testing your holds is recommended. I have managed to pull small rocks and flakes off of most of the routes on the cliff. This should clean up with time and traffic, but as of August 2012, belaying out of the line of fire and a helmet for the belayer are good ideas. For the most part, the rock is solid and fun to climb on but testing holds is highly recommended (especially in the roof bands). As the routes are newer and the wall somewhat less than vertical, a brush is a good addition to the rack.
Take I-70 to the Officer's Gulch exit between Copper and Frisco. Drive to the east side of the highway, cross 10 Mile Creek and park by the gate. On the other side of the bike path is a circular, natural gas sign. Count this as zero and begin walking north east towards Frisco. Beware tourists on rental bikes and some crazy long boarders. At the second Gas sign (about 500'), a small cairn marks a trail on the right. Follow the aerobic trail uphill for about 15 minutes keeping an eye out on the right for a cliff with visible bolt hangers. Follow the homemade dirt steps up to the base of Dealer's Choice.
A. Once Bitten, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
9 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Halfway Rock:
Paranoid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Once Bitten 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Twice Shy 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Das Krankenhaus 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Godzilla 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
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