BETA PHOTO: Start of the trail to Halfway Rock from the bike p...
This recently established sport area is a great addition to the Summit County climbing scene. The rock is generally solid, the moves are fun, and the bolting is pretty intelligent. The crag is not over-bolted. The NW-facing cliff is shady. The generally solid, "granite-ish" rock is somewhat slabby with a few roof bands adding excitement to most of the routes. Most of the climbing is on small flakes and blocks that protrude from the underlying rock. Some of these blocks especially in the roof bands are not securely attached, and testing your holds is recommended. I have managed to pull small rocks and flakes off of most of the routes on the cliff. This should clean up with time and traffic, but as of August 2012, belaying out of the line of fire and a helmet for the belayer are good ideas. For the most part, the rock is solid and fun to climb on but testing holds is highly recommended (especially in the roof bands). As the routes are newer and the wall somewhat less than vertical, a brush is a good addition to the rack.
FAs on all routes are Will Scott, Ben Butler, and Josh Carey.
Take I-70 to the Officer's Gulch exit between Copper and Frisco. Drive to the east side of the highway, cross 10 Mile Creek and park by the gate. On the other side of the bike path is a circular, natural gas sign. Count this as zero and begin walking north east towards Frisco. Beware tourists on rental bikes and some crazy long boarders. At the second Gas sign (about 500'), a small cairn marks a trail on the right. Follow the aerobic trail uphill for about 15 minutes keeping an eye out on the right for a cliff with visible bolt hangers. Follow the homemade dirt steps up to the base of Dealer's Choice
A. Once Bitten
, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Twice Shy
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Dealer's Choice Left
, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Dealer's Choice Right
, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Das Krankenhaus
, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Chicken Spider
, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Halfway Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Halfway Rock:
Paranoid 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Once Bitten 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Twice Shy 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Godzilla 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Halfway Rock
Once Bitten 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: 10 Mile Canyon
: Halfway Rock
Is this the best route at Halfway? Maybe if it was longer. It definitely has the most solid rock at the crag. Follow bolts and crimps up the black slab reaching a series of small ledges. If the leader is sketchin', the belay should be heads up till after the third clip ....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Halfway Rock
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Ben Butler
May 26, 2014
The hornets' nest has been removed along with some more rock in the Dealer's Choice roof band. There is still a lot of snow on the approach and at the base of the crag, but it is climbable.
By Mike Bannister
Jul 4, 2013
As of July 2013, the routes have cleaned up nicely. There are still some a few questionable blocks in the roof bands.