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Halfway Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boomerang S 
Chicken Spider S 
Das Krankenhaus S 
Dealer's Choice Left S 
Dealer's Choice Right S 
Godzilla S 
Once Bitten S 
Paranoid S 
Twice Shy S 

Halfway Rock  


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Location: 39.5388, -106.1364 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,290
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Bannister on Aug 16, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Start of the trail to Halfway Rock from the bike p...

Description 

This recently established sport area is a great addition to the Summit County climbing scene. The rock is generally solid, the moves are fun, and the bolting is pretty intelligent. The crag is not over-bolted. The NW-facing cliff is shady. The generally solid, "granite-ish" rock is somewhat slabby with a few roof bands adding excitement to most of the routes. Most of the climbing is on small flakes and blocks that protrude from the underlying rock. Some of these blocks especially in the roof bands are not securely attached, and testing your holds is recommended. I have managed to pull small rocks and flakes off of most of the routes on the cliff. This should clean up with time and traffic, but as of August 2012, belaying out of the line of fire and a helmet for the belayer are good ideas. For the most part, the rock is solid and fun to climb on but testing holds is highly recommended (especially in the roof bands). As the routes are newer and the wall somewhat less than vertical, a brush is a good addition to the rack.

FAs on all routes are Will Scott, Ben Butler, and Josh Carey.

Getting There 

Take I-70 to the Officer's Gulch exit between Copper and Frisco. Drive to the east side of the highway, cross 10 Mile Creek and park by the gate. On the other side of the bike path is a circular, natural gas sign. Count this as zero and begin walking north east towards Frisco. Beware tourists on rental bikes and some crazy long boarders. At the second Gas sign (about 500'), a small cairn marks a trail on the right. Follow the aerobic trail uphill for about 15 minutes keeping an eye out on the right for a cliff with visible bolt hangers. Follow the homemade dirt steps up to the base of Dealer's Choice.

L->R: 

A. Once Bitten, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
B. Twice Shy, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Godzilla, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Dealer's Choice Left, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Dealer's Choice Right, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Das Krankenhaus, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Paranoid, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Chicken Spider, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Boomerang, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Halfway Rock:
Paranoid   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Once Bitten   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Twice Shy   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Das Krankenhaus   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Godzilla   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Halfway Rock

Featured Route For Halfway Rock
Boomerang. Where the rope bends 90 degrees left ne...

Boomerang 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Halfway Rock
This has interesting and fun climbing up a right-arching feature. Unfortunately the rock is the worst at the cliff. Test holds carefully. This shares anchors with Chicken Spider. Please use care to reduce erosion below this climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Halfway Rock Add Comment
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By Ben Butler
May 26, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
The hornets' nest has been removed along with some more rock in the Dealer's Choice roof band. There is still a lot of snow on the approach and at the base of the crag, but it is climbable.
By Mike Bannister
Jul 4, 2013
As of July 2013, the routes have cleaned up nicely. There are still some a few questionable blocks in the roof bands.