half/twin ropes
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Hi, |
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I heart my PMI Veglas. They handle like butta and it is nice to know you can use them either as half/twin. My understanding is the difference between half/twin is due to impact force, whatever that is ;) |
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have the mammuts and no complaints. one thing to keep in mind is that the skinnier the ropes the more twisting, weird knotting, catching up & wind issues you will have rappelling with them. on the other hand, less to carry on the approach. |
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From an earlier post of mine: |
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Great! Thanks for the info. |
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I have Mammut Genesis. I believe they are approved for twin as well as half, but I don't seem to be able to find the product hang tag that came with them, and the tape markers on the ends of the ropes (which I think may also have this info) are gone. |
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pfwein wrote:I have Mammut Genesis. I believe they are approved for twin as well as half, but I don't seem to be able to find the product hang tag that came with them, and the tape markers on the ends of the ropes (which I think may also have this info) are gone.I still have the tag that came with my Genesis ropes, and they are not dual use, only rated as half ropes. pfwein wrote:beware that the weight of the ropes near the end of long, steep pitches will be quite a bit more than with a single ropeI've gotten a lot of long multi-pitch mileage on my Genesis, and rope weight has never been an issue for me. JL |
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+1 for the genesis...yes, they are a tad thicker, but they are a soft and great handling rope. |
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OK, but Mammut's product literature is certainly "interesting" regarding whether a half rope may be used as a twin. As I read it, Mammut says you can use their half roes in either twin mode or "standard" half rope mode. From their brochure: |
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Eric Ruljancich wrote:If they are clipped together as twin rope system they can create a much higher level of impact, potentially ripping out your gear. Thus, twin ropes should not be used in a half ropes, and half ropes should should not be used as twins. With all that said, several manufactures now make ropes that are rated both as half and twins - a bit of compromise on both ends.It isn't as much a compromise as it is a strand that can meet the requirements of both drop tests. While clipping both strands on the half rating does create higher impact on the pro; it's not catastrophically higher -- i.e. this isn't a case where the system goes into a static material versus a dynamic material. Which is why it really isn't that big a deal to have a rope that can be either twin or half rated. You just want to stay with only one method during the climbing pitch. What makes a half (other than the drop test criteria), is the climbing method. Under perfect conditions, the drop mass will have some sort of distribution between two independent protection points. Which is why the standard doesn't use a full mass for the cert. But, I find my method is usually more to rope drag, I may alternate strands to begin with, but then clip the next 3 with the green strand then the next 4 with the purple strand; this takes away the half method and now I'm just using the halfs as singles. |
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pfwein wrote:OK, but Mammut's product literature is certainly "interesting" regarding whether a half rope may be used as a twin. As I read it, Mammut says you can use their half roes in either twin mode or "standard" half rope mode.That is interesting; I hadn't seen that in their literature. JL |
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Mammut Genesis! I use them on everything from alpine to ice and I can't wait to get a new set. |
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Dusty wrote:Hi, PMI Verglas 8.1 half/twin $159 vs Mammut Genesis 8.5 half $135 Which way do I go? Thanks in advance. DustyNeither. I much prefer Blue Water Excellence 8.4mm half ropes. I have owned 3 pairs of these ropes and I always end up retiring them because of age, not because the ropes are worn out. And yes, I abuse the heck out of them...ice, alpine rock etc. Keep in mind, that I am perhaps bias. I have had bad luck with Mammut ropes. Just my opinion. |
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Buff Johnson wrote:Under perfect conditions, the drop mass will have some sort of distribution between two independent protection points. Which is why the standard doesn't use a full mass for the cert.That's what I thought too, but apparently it isn't so. The reason for the 55 kg mass is that a half rope should hold at least one 80 kg "UIAA" fall. (No assumption of strict alternation.) However, reliably testing that is difficult. It's better to test for multiple falls with a reduced mass. To the OP: I like my Verglas. |
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Sorry to dig up a very old thread, but anyone care to comment of the PMI Fusion half/twin 8.6mm? |