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Half ropes, same manufacturer?
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By Sam Stephens
Sep 6, 2010
Top half of Melifluous

Silly question, but I recently bought a pair of half ropes from someone and now need to replace one. They claimed they'd only been used a few times and had a picture. I bought them on here and figured "Hey, this is a pretty good community, no one is out to screw anyone over." Well I got the ropes and one is perfect the others sheath is shredded about 1/3 of the way from one end with visible core.

So my question is, am I going to be fine with an 8.6 Bluewater and an 8.4 Sterling? I figure it's fine but wanted to ask around anyway before I bought a new rope.


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By Evan1984
Sep 6, 2010

Sam,

You'll be fine if you clip alternatingly. If you clip tandem, then one of the ropes will bear more of the load because they won't have identical stretch/impact characteristics.

That said, I think it is much better to try and get another identical cord.

If this dude misrepresented what he sold, I'd give him a chance to fix it. If he doesn't make right, I think you are within your right to air your grievance publicly.


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By Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Sep 6, 2010
fall foliage 5.7+ slab

generally half ropes are best bought as a pair. Even if you do get a replacement that is the exact same rope from the same manufacturer the old and the new will have different amounts of elongation. I would also question the "good" rope's reliability based on the condition of the other rope. Bottom line is: don't buy used ropes.


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Sep 6, 2010

Sam Stephens wrote:
That being said I don't know how much I want to go after the seller, what good is it really going to do?



If you let their name out it would give the rest of us a heads up.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 8, 2010
Top half of Melifluous

The rope in question.

messed up sheath
messed up sheath


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2010
Bocan

I have a general "distrust" of people that join MP just to sell stuff or complain.

Yeah maybe she's 16, but she's got a whole lot of new and expensive gear to sell. Just sayin...


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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 8, 2010
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece.

So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins.

Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques.

In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties.

Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.


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By Sam Stephens
Sep 8, 2010
Top half of Melifluous

Thanks Greg. I'll probably just wait til I need to use doubles again before I buy another to go with this one.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 8, 2010
El Chorro

Greg D wrote:
Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece. So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins. Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques. In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties. Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.


Greg is correct.

On long routes that require two ropes I take a single rope and a 8.3 half rope (because I don't have enough money to buy three ropes). I clip them alternately or left pro on one rope and right pro on the other rope (half/double rope technique). I think it's kinda dumb to be trailing a perfectly good rope and not using it to lead, so even if we have to go up w/ two single ropes for some reason, I still like to use them as doubles.


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