Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Half ropes, same manufacturer?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Sep 6, 2010
Top half of Melifluous
Silly question, but I recently bought a pair of half ropes from someone and now need to replace one. They claimed they'd only been used a few times and had a picture. I bought them on here and figured "Hey, this is a pretty good community, no one is out to screw anyone over." Well I got the ropes and one is perfect the others sheath is shredded about 1/3 of the way from one end with visible core.

So my question is, am I going to be fine with an 8.6 Bluewater and an 8.4 Sterling? I figure it's fine but wanted to ask around anyway before I bought a new rope.
Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Sep 6, 2010
Sam,

You'll be fine if you clip alternatingly. If you clip tandem, then one of the ropes will bear more of the load because they won't have identical stretch/impact characteristics.

That said, I think it is much better to try and get another identical cord.

If this dude misrepresented what he sold, I'd give him a chance to fix it. If he doesn't make right, I think you are within your right to air your grievance publicly.
Evan1984
Joined Aug 15, 2007
77 points
Sep 6, 2010
fall foliage 5.7+ slab
generally half ropes are best bought as a pair. Even if you do get a replacement that is the exact same rope from the same manufacturer the old and the new will have different amounts of elongation. I would also question the "good" rope's reliability based on the condition of the other rope. Bottom line is: don't buy used ropes. Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Joined Jan 19, 2007
277 points
Sep 6, 2010
Sam Stephens wrote:
That being said I don't know how much I want to go after the seller, what good is it really going to do?



If you let their name out it would give the rest of us a heads up.
Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Apr 15, 2010
403 points
Sep 8, 2010
Top half of Melifluous
The rope in question.
messed up sheath
messed up sheath
Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Sep 8, 2010
Bocan
I have a general "distrust" of people that join MP just to sell stuff or complain.

Yeah maybe she's 16, but she's got a whole lot of new and expensive gear to sell. Just sayin...
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Sep 8, 2010
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece.

So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins.

Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques.

In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties.

Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Sep 8, 2010
Top half of Melifluous
Thanks Greg. I'll probably just wait til I need to use doubles again before I buy another to go with this one. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
Administrator
Sep 8, 2010
El Chorro
Greg D wrote:
Most of the above info in not accurate. Ropes having different properties/elongations is not relevant if you are using half/double techniques. That is, clipping ropes separately. Different properties only matters if you are using twin techniques. That is, clipping both ropes to every piece. So, if you buy a new rope that is rated for half/double than get whatever you want. Never clip both ropes to a single piece of gear if they are not rated as twins. Half/double rope vs twin ropes are quite misunderstood. To confuse you more, recently some ropes are rated for twin and half/double techniques. In short, twin ropes must be clipped to every piece... and the ropes should have like properties. Half/double ropes should not be clipped to a single piece... and the ropes do not have to have like properties.


Greg is correct.

On long routes that require two ropes I take a single rope and a 8.3 half rope (because I don't have enough money to buy three ropes). I clip them alternately or left pro on one rope and right pro on the other rope (half/double rope technique). I think it's kinda dumb to be trailing a perfectly good rope and not using it to lead, so even if we have to go up w/ two single ropes for some reason, I still like to use them as doubles.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!