Anyone have any thoughts about using half ropes to climb the more moderate routes in Patagonia, e.g. like the Franco Argentine on Fitz Roy? It doesn't seem like a lot of people use them down there and I wondered if there was a particular reason. For that climb in particular seems like it might make sense as there seems to be some wandering terrain and lots of rappeling to get off of it. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I am heading down there this winter!
I haven't been to Patagonia yet but will be going this season as well. I had a forum up similar to this. I think the general consensus was to bring two thicker ropes, due to the abrasion of the rock. There were some horror stories told of falling rock cutting core shots in ropes. I'm covering patagonia from north to south from October to march so I'm bring one 60 meter 9.8 mm, two 60 meter 8.5 mm. Let me know if you want any advice from the info I've gathered in my preparation or a partner down there!
We climbed on a pair of petzl dragonflies (8.6mm) which was all well and good. We were the only people I saw on half ropes, though. When I go back this season I'm bringing a single chord around 9mm and a dynamic tag line that is pretty thin (8mm give or take). On a 70m pitch half ropes get pretty heavy to haul up even if you are running it out and using long slings. The rope drag from two ropes running through biners and over rock adds up. Obviously on a wandering route/pitch they shine, but I figure you can use the setup I described earlier (one 9mm and another pretty skinny rope) like half ropes for a pitch or two if needed. I'd rather have one thicker chord and a tag flying in the breeze or in my seconds pack on clean, plumb pitches. I would keep the tag line dynamic though as an emergency back up if the primary line gets chopped. A combo you can simul-rap off of is pretty clutch for getting down quickly due to a storm or just trying to beat the disappearing daylight. Pulling a dynamic 7.5mm rope after a long rappel is going to be a bitch for what it's worth. That's the only part I'm not too psyched on.
justin dubois wrote: best advice would be to re-define your definition of "moderate" first.......
Haha. So freaking true.
I didn't regret the versatility of having half lines when we were there, but it wasn't the only way. If it's windy (it's always windy), you aren't going to rap more than 30m at a time. It was nice to be able to do long raps in the couloir, though. I don't know what I'd do next time. I guess it'd be route dependent.
Beatfeet's asnwer is pretty spot on. I would not want half ropes for the Franco. You'll probably ending up wanting to jug some pitches on that thing. Thicker single with a tag line seems to be the way...
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