|Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b
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This is a new route by Tim Kemple Sr. and a friend. He asked me to try it today to see what I thought of the grade etc. It's still a bit scuzzy but has some nice moves on it. The route is much easier down low and harder and steeper up high. For this reason they put a mid way anchor on it.
Half Nelson 5.7- down hill and right of Men In White Suites (5.9) look for a corner with bolts. Climb very moderate moves to a head wall. 5.7/5.8 ish climbing up the headwall gets to a mantel and the first anchor. Lower off or continue on...
Full Nelson 5.11b- This upper section is very crimpy and pretty steep. 5.10 ish climbing leads to a hard boulder problem to rach the chains. Finding the holds is the hard part as of now. Once it is cleaner it will be easier to navigate.
Still a bit dirty and brittle. This will be less of a problem the more love it sees so give it a try.
Down hill and right of Men in White Suites.
8 bolts to the top i think. Ring anchors on both, top and midway anchor.
|Comments on Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010
I saw this while it was in the process of being bolted, looks pretty cool. it does cross the trad route Brendan's Bitches 5.6 but this route will probably get much more attention, and provides a bolt for the poorly protected Brendan's Bitches 5.6 so it could be an added bonus.
Nov 13, 2011
This climb could still use some clean up work. It felt pretty dirty and sharp as I led it, and when my buddy TR'ed it after, pebbles were raining down. A baseball sized chunk left of the second to last bolt also broke off in his hand as he climbed past it.
I can't comment on the grade; I wasn't expecting 11.something territory and couldn't piece together the crux sequence, but I would like to try this again. It seemed like there were two ways to get up past the last two bolts. We both went up the right, but I thought the left seemed more like the intention. I would be interested to see the ratings for each.
One other note: the links on the chains at the top are not large enough to accept a biner. After trying that, I tried hanging draws from the quick-links on the hangers. This left the draws a bit too far apart, so I had to hang the draws on the rap rings on the ends of the chains. It would be a little nicer to have some larger links up there, but it's manageable as it is.