|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Tim Kemple Sr. and Steve Smith (i think that was his name?)|
|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Oct 5, 2010|
|Comments on Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010
|I saw this while it was in the process of being bolted, looks pretty cool. it does cross the trad route Brendan's Bitches 5.6 but this route will probably get much more attention, and provides a bolt for the poorly protected Brendan's Bitches 5.6 so it could be an added bonus.|
Nov 13, 2011
This climb could still use some clean up work. It felt pretty dirty and sharp as I led it, and when my buddy TR'ed it after, pebbles were raining down. A baseball sized chunk left of the second to last bolt also broke off in his hand as he climbed past it.
I can't comment on the grade; I wasn't expecting 11.something territory and couldn't piece together the crux sequence, but I would like to try this again. It seemed like there were two ways to get up past the last two bolts. We both went up the right, but I thought the left seemed more like the intention. I would be interested to see the ratings for each.
One other note: the links on the chains at the top are not large enough to accept a biner. After trying that, I tried hanging draws from the quick-links on the hangers. This left the draws a bit too far apart, so I had to hang the draws on the rap rings on the ends of the chains. It would be a little nicer to have some larger links up there, but it's manageable as it is.
By J Meagher
Nov 8, 2014
|A friend of mine tried this today, he said it looked like a few holds broke near the top and that the grade felt much harder than 5.11. Also if you belay for this route I recommend wearing a helmet, a lot of the holds are still breaking off very easily|