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 ADVANCED
Rusty Ring Wall
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Arete Action S 
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final straw, The S 
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Half Hearted 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Satermo.

No longer private property. See below.

Description 

This is the short, steep arete on the left hand side. Though short, it starts 30 feet off the deck so at least you get some added exposure. Climb arete. The crux comes early on at the second bolt layaway/laybacking to a jug. You will need a little more than a half hearted try to finish it off.

Location 

Left side

Protection 

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor. At the base of the line below the first bolt you can get two opposed nuts to keep the chances of "crotching" to a minimum.


Photos of Half Hearted Slideshow Add Photo
Tony B.
Tony B.
Half Hearted
Half Hearted
The start.
The start.

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By Tradoholic
Jul 31, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pretty good line. Start on the left face after clipping the first bolt with a right hand on the arete. Stay on the left face until you are on the jugs, then utilize hold on both the right and left of the arete.

No holds on the right face for the first two bolts. Maybe they broke off JJ?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is much more burly and pumpy than it looks like it should be for being so short.

I ripped off a large side pull jug at the very top with a loop of rope in my mouth to clip. Satermo kept me off the ground, barely. Thanks buddy!
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

You can also do a variation starting to the right of the first bolt only using holds on the right face up to the 4th bolt. A bit contrived, but fun and about 11+ish.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I wondered if anyone had done that. It seemed very thin, but I did not try it.