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Dihedrals Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Half-A-Finger 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Dave Boyd & Eric Eliason 1970, FFA: Dave Jenkins & Rick Wyatt 1977
Page Views: 4,798
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2004

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Description 

Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on the left.

Rap with one rope from fixed chain anchors.


Protection 

Standard Rack, nothing very big is needed. Hand sized piece for the tricky topout.



Photos of Half-A-Finger Slideshow Add Photo
1) <a href='/v/half-a-finger/105740039'>Half-A-Finger</a> 5.9+ <br />2) <a href='/v/black-and-white-john-and-mary/105741449'>Black and White John and Mary</a> 5.10c <br />3) <a href='/v/equipment-overhang/105741164'>Equipment Overhang</a> 5.11a <br />4) <a href='/v/lisas-shoulder/105740042'>Lisa's Shoulder</a> 5.9R <br />5) <a href='/v/satans-corner/105740510'>Satan's Corner</a> 5.8
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+
2) Black and White John and Mary 5.10c
3) [[...
eric atwell making it look good
eric atwell making it look good
Dihedrals area
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area
Ben finishing up the stemming bottom portion. (His first time in LCC)
Ben finishing up the stemming bottom portion. (His...
Half a Figure (5.9+)
Half a Figure (5.9+)
Getting the horn on Half a Figure
Getting the horn on Half a Figure
Comments on Half-A-Finger Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 23, 2004

The left finish is where it is at!

By Anonymous Coward
May 4, 2004

A must do LCC Classic!!!

By Nathan Fisher
Apr 13, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Can a route get any better than this one. I think not. Well that may be a bit strong, but this route kicks ass!!! 3 definite cruxes, great rock, good length, oh and the exposure on the finger. That is, of course, if you do the left finger variation. Wrap your little arms aroung that loving finger and campus on up. Man, what a route!!!!

By tenesmus
Apr 13, 2006

umm, its not sustained as described, so don't be afraid to get on it and boulder the cruxes to the good rests. Great for the aspiring 5.9 gear leader with sport climbing experience.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 1, 2006

Great climb, I thought the first two cruxes were pretty easy, ( great fingers, great pro) but very fun. That last thing is pretty awkward though. I took the right variation, so I'm not cool I guess. I had no idea how I was supposed to go left! Now I'm getting the idea, but hey, it was an onsight, I took what I saw.

By Gary Olsen
Sep 2, 2006

It is a cool climb. Dont sweat it, now you can go back and go left, but I fail to see that there is a right or wrong way.

Historical Note: The way left on the finger used to have a BFJ (Big F***ing Jugg), but it broke off in the mid 1980's.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007

Another superb route at the diehedrals! Before committing to the wild left finish, I place a 3 camalot with a long sling as high as possible. Then I lieback the finger and try not to use a knee when my feet cut loose!

By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Aug 29, 2009

This one is a little harder for the shorter people. I'm 5'5" and had a good struggle with this one. Must be creative if your short. It's all part of the fun!

By Alec
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This really isn't sustained or strenuous at all. There are excellent stances for placing bomber pro before each crux. Ten is dead on -- great for a 5.10 sport climber learning to place gear.

By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Apr 27, 2010

We did 5 routes in the dihedrals yesterday and this was my favorite. I didn't know going left was an option at the top, I'll take it next time for the exposure, but the finger at the top was still my favorite part. I ended up slotting my whole left arm in it and pulled directly over the top. Just that move was worth it. I'll be back for more laps on this one. (comparing it to Satan's Corner I'd give Satan's a 5.9- and this a 5.9+)

By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was awesome, I finally led it. The cruxes are a little intimidating, but so fun!

By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Dec 1, 2012

Very fun! Somehow I ended up on my belly looking strait down while surmounting the finger, very exposed but soooo cool.

By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I found this pretty stiff for the grade, even by LCC standards. I got on it as a warmup and ended up getting a workout. I second Jeff Guest's comment that maybe it's a little harder if you're short (I'm 5'4")? I found myself using wide and high feet and feeling quite exposed before I could reach the next good hold. Super fun though!

By S.Cohen
Jun 12, 2014

Great line with amazing fingers through the first two cruxes. Trying to finish through the squeeze is pretty awkward. Trust yourself and bust out left for the hero finish.

By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If there is a crux on this climb then it would be going left of the horn, which is the only reason I gave it a 5.9+ rating. 3 cruxes? No. More like 3 great rests. The gear is all there - I mostly used finger-sized cams except for the roof (#3 w/ a sling). This is a height dependent route as my 5'3" friend had a harder time climbing this - and she usually out-climbs me.

I'd definitely recommend this for the 5.9 leader since it has:
-so many gear placements that you could sew this thing up tight
-so many fingerlocks and jugs with great feet
-so many good rests (if you need them)
-relatively short compared to other 5.9s in the canyon
-super aesthetic & a great warm-up for BAWJAM to the right.