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Routes in Lion's Head
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Hakuna Matada S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lion Cling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lion of Judah S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Simba's Pride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Heekin. 2005. |
| Page Views: | 1,313 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Jun 12, 2011 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This fine two pitch route takes the most obvious and tallest line to the top of Lion's Head. The first pitch is fun and juggy 5.9 climbing and is worth doing just on its own.
The second pitch is the business pitch with a hard, thin crimping crux on the cool patina plates of the upper wall.
Climb the fine first pitch past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.
Now get psyched for some painful crimping and head up past two bolts on the left of the upper headwall. Make a tough move to the horizontal crack to clip the bolt that will protect the crux moves. Find good feet and crimp hard past the horizontal on patina plates to better holds. Clip a couple more bolts on more moderate ground to the anchor near the summit of the formation.
It seems reasonable to do this whole climb as one long pitch but only lower to the anchors atop pitch 1 because a single 60m or even 70m won't get you down.
The second pitch is the business pitch with a hard, thin crimping crux on the cool patina plates of the upper wall.
Climb the fine first pitch past seven bolts to a bolt and chain anchor on the face. While it's fine to anchor here, it's a lot more comfortable to continue up another 10 feet to the scoop/ledge and a single bolt belay below the upper headwall.
Now get psyched for some painful crimping and head up past two bolts on the left of the upper headwall. Make a tough move to the horizontal crack to clip the bolt that will protect the crux moves. Find good feet and crimp hard past the horizontal on patina plates to better holds. Clip a couple more bolts on more moderate ground to the anchor near the summit of the formation.
It seems reasonable to do this whole climb as one long pitch but only lower to the anchors atop pitch 1 because a single 60m or even 70m won't get you down.
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