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The Y Crack Area
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Hairy Airy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan O, Mike Verdugo
Page Views: 2,118
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The bomber jug

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney. Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up. From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right. The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang. Easy mantel of the top. Highly recommended.

Protection 

TR or a couple of bolts near the top for a lead. The bolt down low is for a right moving varaition at 5.11b.


Photos of Hairy Airy Slideshow Add Photo
Zoom in to see top bolt just beneath the bomber ju...
BETA PHOTO: Zoom in to see top bolt just beneath the bomber ju...
Beginning of the layback section of Hairy Airy
Beginning of the layback section of Hairy Airy
John B (13 yrs old)flashes Hairy Airy direct start...
John B (13 yrs old)flashes Hairy Airy direct start...

Comments on Hairy Airy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 28, 2008

I always wondered why that lower bolt was added...
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you stick to the flake at the start and climb direct to the ledge with bolts it keeps the rating at 5.6.
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Apr 2, 2013

I bailed off this climb thinking that I was a total puss, because it felt waaay harder than 5.9. I must have accidentally stumbled across the 11b variation.
By Tony Thomas
From: Oceanside, CA
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

When Sport Climbing the crux make sure that your belayer keeps the slack a little tighter than usual. There is not much room to take a lead fall since you are only 3-6 feet over the rocks on the ledge. Just be aware of this and you will be fine. Enjoy!

By Eric Van Williams
From: Oside,CA
Jul 10, 2013

I see that someone added a couple of bolts to this one, its a nice addition if you ask me. This is a solid route, it is horrible that the area gets spray paint...
By Tim Sweet
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The main slab/flake at the beginning was vibrating a bit like a drum last time I climbed it. I bailed right before the lieback move at the platform because I felt a little weird about climbing it after that.
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