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The Y Crack Area
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5.11 Problem, The TR 
Butthole Express T,S 
Chimney T 
Hairy Airy T 
Route 56 T 
Y Crack, The T,TR 

Hairy Airy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan O, Mike Verdugo
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Zoom in to see top bolt just beneath the bomber ju...
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This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney. Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up. From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right. The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang. Easy mantel of the top. Highly recommended.


TR or a couple of bolts near the top for a lead. The bolt down low is for a right moving varaition at 5.11b.

Photos of Hairy Airy Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of the layback section of Hairy Airy
Beginning of the layback section of Hairy Airy
The bomber jug
The bomber jug
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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 28, 2008

I always wondered why that lower bolt was added...

By Josh Cameron
Aug 31, 2011

If you stick to the flake at the start and climb direct to the ledge with bolts it keeps the rating at 5.6.

By Jason Kim
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 2, 2013

I bailed off this climb thinking that I was a total puss, because it felt waaay harder than 5.9. I must have accidentally stumbled across the 11b variation.

By Tony Thomas
From: Oceanside, CA
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

When Sport Climbing the crux make sure that your belayer keeps the slack a little tighter than usual. There is not much room to take a lead fall since you are only 3-6 feet over the rocks on the ledge. Just be aware of this and you will be fine. Enjoy!

By Eric Van Williams
From: Oside,CA
Jul 10, 2013

I see that someone added a couple of bolts to this one, its a nice addition if you ask me. This is a solid route, it is horrible that the area gets spray paint...

By Tim Sweet
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The main slab/flake at the beginning was vibrating a bit like a drum last time I climbed it. I bailed right before the lieback move at the platform because I felt a little weird about climbing it after that.