|The Y Crack Area
This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney. Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up. From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right. The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang. Easy mantel of the top. Highly recommended.
TR or a couple of bolts near the top for a lead. The bolt down low is for a right moving varaition at 5.11b.
Beginning of the layback section of Hairy Airy
The bomber jug
|By Josh Cameron|
Aug 31, 2011
If you stick to the flake at the start and climb direct to the ledge with bolts it keeps the rating at 5.6.
|By Jason Kim|
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 2, 2013
I bailed off this climb thinking that I was a total puss, because it felt waaay harder than 5.9. I must have accidentally stumbled across the 11b variation.
|By Tony Thomas|
From: Oceanside, CA
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
When Sport Climbing the crux make sure that your belayer keeps the slack a little tighter than usual. There is not much room to take a lead fall since you are only 3-6 feet over the rocks on the ledge. Just be aware of this and you wil be fine. Enjoy!
|By Eric Van Williams|
Jul 10, 2013
I see that someone added a couple of bolts to this one, its a nice addition if you ask me. This is a solid route, it is horrible that the area gets spray paint...