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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Problem, The 
Butthole Express 
Chimney 
Hairy Airy 
Route 56 
Y Crack, The 

Hairy Airy 

5.9

   
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Type: Trad, 35 feet
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
FA: Dan O, Mike Verdugo
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Zoom in to see top bolt just beneath the bomber ju...

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Description 

This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney. Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up. From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right. The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang. Easy mantel of the top. Highly recommended.


Protection 

TR or a couple of bolts near the top for a lead. The bolt down low is for a right moving varaition at 5.11b.



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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 28, 2008

I always wondered why that lower bolt was added...

By Josh Cameron
Aug 31, 2011

If you stick to the flake at the start and climb direct to the ledge with bolts it keeps the rating at 5.6.

By Jason Kim
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 2, 2013

I bailed off this climb thinking that I was a total puss, because it felt waaay harder than 5.9. I must have accidentally stumbled across the 11b variation.