|Castle Rock - North Spur
This arete route has a lot of enjoyable moves and a good position but is somewhat contrived in a couple spots. The start can be skipped by scrambling up some boulders to the right and stepping onto the route above the first bolt, and the crux (just below the roof/right-veering crack) can be by-passed by following the chalked holds left a few feet to the crack and then heading back up and right. Avoiding the crux makes the route around
Far right corner of the North Wall, on the arete. Just around the arete corner is The Crack House.
Bolts with rap anchors at the top.
|By Jeff Jones|
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I thought that the crux was below the first roof. It is a little section of slab with nothing but razor thin edges to hold onto. Fortunately, I am a little taller and was able to reach a good hold below the roof after finding a decent place to get some friction with my feet. Getting over each of the 2 roofs was very interesting and was probably the highlight for me since I don't do crimps or roofs very well.