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> N America
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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Shannon Falls
> Papoose
> Main Area, Frontside
Hairpin
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 329
votes
Routes in Main Area, Frontside
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All in the Family T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Duet for Two Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Forgive My Trespasses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Limbo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mercurial Crossing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Obsession T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pin Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scaredy Cats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.66831, -123.16601 |
| FA: | Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 15,201 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
First pitch (5.8) is a very interesting left traversing crack, and a wave like rock.
Second pitch (10a) is the crux, a beautiful 10a thin hands/finder crack that goes left, up, and then right.
Third pitch (5.9) goes straight up from belay through a 5.9 bulge/roof, then up and left.
Standard fourth pitch (5.6R) goes left and up on unprotected 5.6 slab until gaining 5.6 cracks and moving back to the right.
Alternate fourth pitch (5.11a) goes straight up on bolts,
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Fifth pitch (5.10a) follows bolts up a slab.
To descend, walk off north (climbers left) on well maintained trail.
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