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This is an excellent spot to find a large variety of bouldering in a concentrated area. It has the advantages of a short approach, it's low on the mountain so there is no fee to park and the temps are perfect for the winter though the canyon will be shady in the afternoon and it can get a little cool for some without the sun.
In the summer it's proven to be a great place to night boulder though I would be overly careful to look out for critters and double check any crack you stick your fingers into as I've seen all kinda of spiders and scorpions.
This is the first sharp turn on your way up Mount Lemmon, just after you pass the sign for Lemmon and the houses on the right there will be a long pull out on the right hand side, park there. If you see mile post 1 you have gone too far. Cross the road and pick up the trail on the left side of the guard rail.
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Hairpin Roof V6 7a AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Roof
same start as hairpin roof right, but rather than lunging out right, match the seam (two crimps and a slopey rail--all with in the same vicinity), and make some moves to top out left. VAR: eliminate the rail/crescent hold before the slopey rail mentioned above. between v8 and v10 somewhere. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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