Just to the left of Easy Jam, climb and obvious right leaning crack with a little of everything. Start with awkward off-width/tips crack moves (weird huh?) into hand and fist to the top. Be kind, leave a sling of your own (and cut off some old ones) before rapping from the anchors.
Standard Vedauwoo rack. Up to #4 Camalot, and slings for the cold shuts at the top.
From the ground, it looks as if this route may finish with a second pitch. So, I clipped the sling anchors, and continued leading up the crack above it to the roof. I pulled out of the roof to find... a dark, shallow water streak that looked like a crack from the ground. I ended up having to downclimb 15 feet or so of good 5.9 handcrack. Honestly, its a shame the anchors aren't 15 feet higher, that crack section is better than the rest of the climb.
I wasn't sure how to finish this climb. I passed the suspect middle anchor, climbed the sweet handcrack, and then groveled/crawled right for a few feet. Then I sat (actually layed) there for about 10 minutes trying to figure out where to go. There's a shallow dihedral that looks like it has no protection straight up, or some intimidating no-feet, hand jamming that continues right. As I was out of hand-sized gear, I ultimately committed to the dihedral (which actually protects quite nicely with RPs). Does anyone know which way is the proper finish?
By slim Administrator Jun 14, 2011 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Continue with the good hand jamming with bad feet to the right, until you do an awkward pull up over a flake sort of thing, and belay in a hole of sorts (if I remember correctly).