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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: P1 Ukn, P2,3 Kim & Matt Lisenby, Will Hays
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008
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P1(.11c): Climb the difficult fingercrack to a ledge at the bottom of a chimney. 5.11c.
P2(.10-): Scamper up the squeeze chimney passing a fixed pin, to bolt anchors, 5.10-R.
P3(.12-): Traverse Right past a bolt(or two) on unusual face holds to a right facing corner. Go up the corner to a zig-zagging splitter in the wide fingers/very thin hands range(green & red camalots)until you get to a roof. Undercling right 10 feet under the roof to an overhanging thin hands crack. Crank 15 feet or so to the anchor.


Located about 20 yards right of King Cat, before reaching Lynx and Line King. Rappel Double ropes to an anchor on a route directly below the top anchors; Then on one rope to the ground.


Triples in the thin fingers, fingers, fat fingers ranges, doubles otherwise up to #3 camalot. A huge cam or a couple of tube chocks could remove the 'R' from the squeeze, but really its not so bad.

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