Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Snowshed Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alvin's Route (TR) 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottomless Topless 
Brain Child 
Conform or Be Cast Out 
Crack of the Eighties 
Devaluation Direct 
Disciples Of the New Wave 
Farewell to Arms 
Hair and Now 
Hair Lip 
Hair Shirt 
Jam Session 
Karl's Gym 
Little Feat 
Manic Depression 
Missing Mind 
Molar Concentration 
Mole's Corner 
Monkey Paws 
Night Country 
Nova Express 
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 
Panic in Detroit 
Pea Soup 
Peter Principle 
Pump Lust 
Rage Reduction 
Rapid Transit 
Rick and Eric's 
Sanitation Crack 
Side Effect 
Split Pea 
Telegraph Crack 
Thing, The 
Two Fingers Gold 
Unknown (5.10d) 
Unknown 5.7 
Welcome to My Nightmare 

Hair Shirt 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,061
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Nice Offwidth. Note the grade of 5.8+ os for the OW, and the climb could feel harder if you've never done this sort of climbing before. IT's a nice one that has reasonable rests and won't shred the aspiring OW climber, but at least short-sleaves may be advised anyway, as opposed to bare-back or in a tank top.

On the right hands side of Showshed wall, as seen in this picture, there is a tall sunny buttress split in two by a nice OW crack. The climb starts up past a few mountain Mapples to reach a slot that gets cleaner and more solid with progress. Fist-jamming gives way to arm bars, knee locks, and heel-toe technique, until the steep moves up top that are beat with pockets deep inside the crack and a good left-hand sidepull out on the left face.

The top-anchor or TR can be set with any of the various elements of a standard rack.


LARGE gear- take as many #3-4.5 camalots of some big bros as you want for pro on the top 1/2.

Comments on Hair Shirt Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Really a classy OW for the Tahoe area...

By Willoughby
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.

By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

Two #4 Camalots with a #5 Camalot between them will get you through the wide section with no more than 10 feet between the pieces.

This is a fun climb. I do not find that offwidth technique is all that necessary as there are many crimps for a your hands and feet to use along with the crack.

By Ehrick
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun, easy offwidth climb. Good for practicing OW technique in a fairly forgiving environment.