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A nice, quiet little summer crag. The rock is mostly shaded by the trees, keeping it nice and cool. Additionally, it either stays dry or dries quickly, since when I went it started raining right after we arrived and we climbed anyway. The routes in the middle are slightly overhanging and are more difficult, while the routes on either side are easy. There are 10 routes in total and they offer a wide variety of difficulty. The climbing offers a little of everything.
Haidhof lies just south of Egloffstein and the main road lies to one side of the town. Park in Haidhof and cross said main road (right goes to Thuisbrunn, left to Mittelehrenbach) onto a dirt road headed downhill. After 200m or so you'll see a bench under a tree where you'll go left. In about 150m head right and right again between the shed and hut. Follow this about 70m up to the forest road, go right and follow this up and then left around the hill for 160m until you see a very steep, climber's trail headed uphill on the right. There's a wooden bridge up there that you'll go under (you can see it from the forest road) and stay to the right to find the crag. The hike is approximately 10min.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For Haidhofer Schlossbergwand
This route was disappointingly typical of the Frankenjura after I climbed Wepsenweg, since it has a definite crux. Climb the flake up to the first bolt, then follow the tiny holds up and left to the 2nd, then follow the next crack up through another bolt and to the last bolt of Wepsenweg. From here you have 2 possibilities which are roughly the same difficulty: either go straight up on small pockets or head left and up in to the crack....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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