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Routes Sorted
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Hai Karate 
Happy to be Here 
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 
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White Cougar 

Hai Karate 

5.12d

   
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Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, FA by Bob Banks
Season: Always—unless, of course, it's wet.
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Follows a somewhat natural line up a series of holes and cobbles. For some reason, this route doesn't seem to get done as much as other routes, but the movement is engaging, consistent, and surprisingly technical. The moves are cruxy past the third bolt, after which you get a decent rest before plowing through a "face-climb" crux past the fourth bolt.

In a nutshell: powerful at the bottom, techie at the top.


Location 

The leftmost route at the Tor. Begins on dirt platform.


Protection 

Fixed Draws.



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 10, 2010

There is some discussion about whether this route is 12d or 13a. To my knowledge, the route has only seen two ascents, and it has been remarked that Hai Karate "felt harder" than other 12d's at the Tor, such as Shatterhand. That report does not, of course, necessarily bump it to 13a.

Try it, see what you think, and weigh in.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 24, 2011

It was originally equipped by Perlin, then upgraded and opened by me. This is a big distinction at the Tor since routes often takes weeks to build. As for the grade, hmmm. It would certainly be 13a most places I've climbed. The Tor isn't most places so 12d seems fair. Is it really harder than the others? Moves, sure, but it's less sustained.