Hagseed
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British V1+ YDS 5 Font R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
FA: | Bjorn (Spring '09) |
Page Views: | 687 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Bjorn on May 17, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Towards the climber's-right of the crag is the prominent hand to fist crack that first caught my eye on this crag. The crux on this route is mainly a mental one. Consequences of a fall are potentially severe, and the interior of the crack, while very solid, is very slick and water-polished. Begin on slammer, often obligingly tapered hand jams, turn the lip on wider hands and take time to find the good fists to seal the top out. Keep a cool head, and you can really enjoy this climb.
My first impression of this crack, then in it's unclean, myriad chockstones-embedded original state, was how nasty it was. It reeked of bat or bird guano till I cleaned it hanging from a rope. It just struck me that this crack had both offensive and alluring qualities to it. But especially after cleaning, Hagseed revealed itself to be a short sample of the perfect splitter potential that is so rare in Clear Creek. I don't know whether to proclaim this crack a destination unless you're the sort who doesn't give a damn about a long approach for a short sample of top quality crack climbing.
It's worth noting that there is a bomber clean gear anchor to be had up top. So one could mitigate the riskiness by climbing this one as a roped route.
My first impression of this crack, then in it's unclean, myriad chockstones-embedded original state, was how nasty it was. It reeked of bat or bird guano till I cleaned it hanging from a rope. It just struck me that this crack had both offensive and alluring qualities to it. But especially after cleaning, Hagseed revealed itself to be a short sample of the perfect splitter potential that is so rare in Clear Creek. I don't know whether to proclaim this crack a destination unless you're the sort who doesn't give a damn about a long approach for a short sample of top quality crack climbing.
It's worth noting that there is a bomber clean gear anchor to be had up top. So one could mitigate the riskiness by climbing this one as a roped route.
Location
Scramble up or across the low 5th class slab at the crag's right side. Beneath the obvious, often odiferous, crack begin on a flake jug, find the least crumbly looking feet and move immediately into hand jams. The opening moves overhang a bit on good hands, then turn the bulge on wider hands to fists.
Protection
R rating is warranted despite the seemingly harmless 15' height. The landing here is directly onto that 5.2 slab. So any pads placed will be on an angle where a falling climber will hit pads then roll/fall down onto the ground below. Not high as number-of-feet-climbed goes, but falling would likely result in at least some injury. And spotters might actually make matters worse.
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