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Hagan's Wall 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Paul Hagan
Page Views: 5,922
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Trying hard to crimp the new broken hold. Photo b...

Description 

This is a classic of Flagstaff mountain. It is the first problem you come to if approaching from The Capstan. It starts on a small two finger pocket for the right hand and a good, although painful, edge for the left. Pull up and throw to a sloping rail, then throw again above the rail to two not quite ideal pebbles. The top out isn't too bad. A great problem, it is wise to use a pad and a spotter as the crux is a little comitting.


Photos of Hagan's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Tim F. Finishing up on Hagan's
Tim F. Finishing up on Hagan's
Hagan's Wall
BETA PHOTO: Hagan's Wall
Jeff about to pull the crux move - sorry for the resolution :(
Jeff about to pull the crux move - sorry for the r...
Half way done on Hagan's Wall.
Half way done on Hagan's Wall.
Ben Caraher sticking the rail.
Ben Caraher sticking the rail.
Misha snaggin' the pebbles on Hagan's Wall
Misha snaggin' the pebbles on Hagan's Wall
Pat having at it on the classic Hagan's Wall.
Pat having at it on the classic Hagan's Wall.

Comments on Hagan's Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2012
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 1, 2001

This is an incredible problem with interesting holds. Most people start with both feet on the smaller of two blocks, but a direct start, which I couldn't do, makes the problem harder and seems to be the full line.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 16, 2002

I did a start off the ground from the right, getting the first pocket with the left, and using a tiny pocket just right to get to the good flake on Hagan's. It seems pretty hard.
By Zach Roth
May 13, 2003

Classic route although getting to the starting holds is somewhat strange for the small folk.
By Ryan Olson
Mar 14, 2004

Yes Zach, we small folk must stick together and compalin about them giganter folk.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004

Hagan's Wall 1969 by Paul Hagan. One problem left is Dandy Lion (Dandy Line V5 according to B.H. guide) - early 80s by Dan Stone; this problem is seldom done and is not as hard as it looks once the beta is known - a real circus trick dyno. Left of this is Launching Pad, which has lost a key crystal. This problem is actually two problems left of Dandy Line (P.A. says "...still right of a kind of inset is a difficult route over an overhang...). P.B. says V4, B.H. says V4, P.A. calls it Hagan's Alcove, by Paul Hagan in 1969. IMHO - I think there is a direct line between Dandy Line and Launching Pad that has yet to be done.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004

Hey John - did you do that line between Dandy Line and Launching Pad?
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 11, 2004

I think the really positive starting left hand crimp/sidepull must have broke in the last year or so. I used to be able to send this pretty consistently, but I can barely pull onto the starting holds now. There is still something there, but it isn't nearly as good as it used to be.
By goldielocks
Nov 27, 2005

The right hand flake seems to flex everytime I see someone on this problem. You should avoid this problem after the rain, lest we soon have a new harder version.
By Andrew Vojslavek
Jun 28, 2006

I went to Flagstaff the other day, and being a short dude and reading Benningfield's book I was lost. I believe he stated, "Start contorted..." what the hell? Do I stack a pad to reach up, the rock to the left, or am I missing something?

Andrew
By Brian Frank
Aug 29, 2006
rating: V5- 6C

If you're 5'7" or taller, you should be able to start on the smaller, lower boulder at the base of the problem (the chalky rock in the pictures). I started out odd and off balance crimping on two small holds; leaned out right and got the good pocket all while keeping my right foot high on the above mentioned boulder.
By Captain Splatt
Oct 23, 2006

I don't know why, but it took me forever to get this line, but when I did, it was kind of anticlimactic. If it was a few feet taller, it would be awesome.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 16, 2008

For video of Hagan's and the Consideration, check my blog:
mountainsandwater.blogspot.com...
By Ben C.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2010

The temps sure do make a difference with this problem and many others at the 'staff... is it November yet?
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 30, 2011

The good flake on Hagan's has broken substantially, making it a bit harder but not more than V6.
By Tank Evans
Apr 9, 2012

Just went and hit up my old Flagstaff circuit today. Climbed Hagen's and did not know it had broke, still feels like V4-5.