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Hen and Chickens
Routes Sorted
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Cackle Crack T 
Hagakure T,TR 
Rhode Island Red T 
Rooster Tail T 
Two In The Pink T 
Unknown T 
Yosemite Crack T 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: H.Suzuki
Page Views: 1,435
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Bronson getting psyched for the crux!

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A good toprope problem or fairly scary lead. Hagakure is on Hen and Chicken Rock, the small buttress directly below the SE corner of the East Owl (about 100 ft high, w/ a pointy summit). The approach trail which branches left about 1/4 mile up the Gem Lake trail leads directly to it. The route starts in the large left-facing corner on the right side of the rock (Cackle Crack). Branch out left in a tricky 5.11 crack after about 10 ft. Reach a small ledge, rest and continue up a right-angling seam, with some fixed pitons (crux). Rappel from a fixed anchor or continue on Cackle Crack. You can scramble up to a ledge below the summit block to set up a top-rope off of gear, but it is almost as easy and much nicer to lead Cackle Crack to the same spot.


Bring very small gear.

Photos of Hagakure Slideshow Add Photo
Moving through the crux.
Moving through the crux.

Comments on Hagakure Add Comment
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By Nate Christiansen
Apr 19, 2003

If debating whether to lead or to TR this, you should consider leading because the TR fall is a nasty cheese-grate swing into the Cackle Crack dihedral at the 11a crack. The pitons at the crux are close together as well which are really not that bad, but old. Really tough crux.
By Stephan Greenway
Apr 19, 2003

Gotta disagree with Nate's comment. Taking a fall on top-rope is neve an issue but falling on those old pins up top could be. I pulled one out with my hands last summer. This is a great and perfectly safe top-rope.
By Stephan Greenway
Apr 19, 2003

Oh I need to mention...I replaced the pin that I pulled out but its disappeared since....I'm not sure if its back or not? Brent, can you remember if the center pin is in or not?

All and all a fun little route...too bad it isn't longer it would be a classic!
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 21, 2003

Put it this way: if you're up to leading this route safely, then the toprope fall should not bother you *at all*. It's nothing. I've toproped this route many times...I'll probably never lead it. The pro is OK if the pins hold, but you have to trust super-small gear in pin scars to back them up.
By Tom Kimbrell
Jun 25, 2003

The middle pin is gone. You can cobble your courage for the crux moves to the upper pin with some "voodoo" gear in the old pin scars. The crux is really thin, powerful, and the gear???
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2003

We went up and tested some of the gear the other day--on toprope. There are a couple of fairly good #0 Metolius TCUs near where the old pin used to be, right where the crux starts (there is also one in the middle of the crux, but it takes up an essential finger jam). Equivalent sized Aliens might work even better, we didn't have any. We tried to place RPs and small stoppers but couldn't find any good ones where the pin used to be.

There is also a *really* good stance for placing the TCUs--good considering that this is a 5.12. The 2 pins below this can be backed up with a great stopper, so you won't go more than 15-20 feet if the TCUs blow, probably 5-10 if they hold.
By grega
Jul 31, 2006

This route is fine to TR (with no swing into CC). Just clip both pins for directionals. Clip the lower pin with a long runner.
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Nov 19, 2008

A purple TCU or RP fits great in the finger slot right between the two pins. You can use a sloper on the right side of the crack instead. Either way...tough 3 moves to the rail!
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